hi, i was wondering if it was normal to get 1.2 volts at the connector disconnected from the fuel tank pressure sensor.i got this p0455 code and just can't figure it out.the first night trying to see if my vent solenoid was working or not by testing it with 12v test probe with a smoke machine attached through the purge solenoid.with the key on and smoke running i got 12v with the connector disconnected across the terminals and smoke pouring out of the vent(i think smoke was coming out).i then tested with a dmm and got 12v across the terminals disconnected switched on and off through a scan tool.i thought that was odd.when i tested the purge solenoid first i did the on and off commands as well as the duty cycle,all seemed to work like it'* supposed to.i then tried switching the vent on and off and heard no click or pop sound although i was getting voltage.so i decided to take off the vent from the frame and test it under the hood off the battery.when i first touched the wire to ground after connecting to the positive post i got no sound,then i did it 2 more times but after the 3rd try i now got the plunger to open and close.and clicked it several times.i put it back on the frame and connected the harness and injected smoke again and switched it on and off now smoke came out switched off and then smoke stopped with switch on like it'* supposed to.i am doubting that the results that i;m getting are correct.i had tried replacing the vent before but the code came back so i returned the vent and popped my old one back in again.it worked every time i switched it on and off with smoke.the smoke machine passed the ball and flag test when i stopped venting. it was at the bottom of the scale, so that'* good no leaks.the smoke machine says to fill the system with the gas cap off until i see smoke while the vent was closed but i never saw smoke come out all the times i tried.i'm not 100% sure if i'm using the smoker and the scan tool right and what to look for.they are my friends tools.the scanner is a mac tools mentor touch with a old outdated database scanner.it has no new subscription to any providers ie;alldata,directhit,etc..what i do notice is that it is super slow,it stops responding,freezes up and sometimes shuts off if the battery is too low so i'm thinking that it'* defective-it'* pretty obvious that its malfunctioningbut when it isn't i believe it'* giving me the correct results.so a youtube video or so on the tank sensor reveals that the wiring integrity is correct by jumping out the terminals.signal to reference 5 steady volts and 1.29v from ground to signal.i disconnected it and still got a 1.29v from harness disconnected when jumping to ground to signal or was it signal to ref?..i forgot.when connected to sensor and gas cap off i got 1.51v..are these readings correct and confirm it'* not the tank sensor at fault?thanks..p.* i also tried to blow into the tank through the vent hose and got pushed back.i thought i was supposed to hear bubbles through the gas or be able to blow into it freely,is this normal?

You just ant to solve the large leak, correct? You have a smoke machine which should find the large leak. Use you can use the scan tool to close the system while adding smoke and see where it'* leaking.
Don't worry about voltage readings on the pressure sensor.
If the vent is intermittent we need to look at the wiring although the solenoid itself may be the problem.

hi, like i said the large leak was probably due to the vent being open when it was commanded by the pcm to apply voltage which would close it.it was open when it shouldn't have been.the calibration on the smoke machine has .40" and .20" which translates to large leak and small leak.it passed both of those tests.the wiring and the vent are working correctly.my main concern is the tank sensor and whether the readings i was getting are correct.disconnected from sensor i got a reading of 1.29v on the scan tool w/ no jumpers.connected with gas cap off i got 1.51v.,disconnected and jumped signal to ref i got 5v steady and jumped ground to signal i also got 1.29v..i don't know maybe i jolted the pcm through the scan tool to start working again making the switch and jolting the vent solenoid off the battery i got the system to work again.who knows...i'll see if the light comes on again and let you know.

Do you know what kind of pressure sensor it is. Resistive or capacitive? I think it'* capacitive which are a bit different in testing.
Do you have access to factory info?

no i don't know what type it is. i never checked the sensor i only checked the wire signal ,ground ,and ref volts for operation.that'* it.no i don't have any access to factory info..

The thing is the sensor will code and the only way it is your current problem is if it is not sealed at the tank. I think you are chasing a ghost.

well it looks like i fixed it completely without having to replace the component.it was definitely the vent solenoid that was at fault.it makes me wonder that the part that i got from rockauto was defective cause the light came back on shortly thereafter after installing it or was it the pcm at fault?i don't know if it'* possible.i tested the new part jumped directly to the battery as well as the old to understand how it works.either i got lucky a couple of days before the registration expired or i got the pcm to start switching like it'* supposed to or something.i'm only supposed to try one thing at a time to see if it corrects the problem or not,not fiddle with a couple of things at a time praying that it will work somehow.not knowing what did it.i have to try something, time and a lift in my friends garage is limited.the only thing that matters is that the light went out and is still off and that i passed inspection and am all legal now to drive down the street..here in albany now and back in the bronx,ny during the 80'* when i was a kid we would always take our chances and drive with out of inspection,maybe reg too but i definitely drove with paper plates once and never got caught.-can't do that down there anymore but up here i went 2 years with a faded date temporary inspection and went a month with expired reg too on my 02' acura tl.that'* the limit.tranny codes that i couldn't get rid of.the only way to clear them is to replace the tranny with the same type and year one, only to fail again someday,yikes!!..i found a work around for that and did something that kept the light off to pass inspect and is still off for that problem-the new light i got is for the o2 sensor..which is the result of not having enough room away from the sensor when welding the exhaust flex braid in place that had very limited space and melting through the pipe a bit.i must of gotten some weld on it ..oh well ,stay tuned for some more tips and tricks. i got some more work to do next on my ford and camry.it never ends...thanks for the help..

Thanks for letting us know how it turned out!