How did you check all the fuses? By looking at the them or by testing them with a test light(both sides), with ignition on?

Today'* modules are not plug and play like before OBDII.....they have to be programmed......

like i mentoned i didnt have a test light so i cant test..
i tested every single fuse with a multiple meter for continuity they fine

this isnt a todays car.. its a 2004 cavlier ive never had a problem swapping BCM from a 2004 cav to a 2004 cav.. or a 2000 sonoma to a 2000 sonoma never needed programming before just plug it in and it works fine

but tommorow ill check with a multimeter

so on the 2004 cav.. which fuses should work with the key in the on position and which fuses shouldnt work with the key on so i can say its working or not

wasnt able to get a test light so ill have to test it with a volt meter tommorow ctire didnt have any in stock

so with Key off using Test Light these are the ones not giving power
Key Off
---------------
PCM
IGN MDL
ABS
BCM/CLU
BCM
AIR BAG
ERLS
WIPER
02 HTR
f/P INJ
HVAC
CLSTR

Under hood
BLO
CRNK
all dont power up with key off

testing the 2 Red Power Wires at the Ignition Switch.. Will not light up Test light.
using a Multi Meter will say i have 11volts
so not sure why its doing that should also light up bulb and it isnt a LED so it should work either polarity .. but some reason 12Volts for Igntion will not light the bulb

With Key On
------------------
PCM
IGN MDL
ABS
BCM/CLU
BCM
AIR BAG
ERLS
WIPER
02 HTR
f/P INJ
HVAC
CLSTR

Under hood
BLO
CRNK

all off

the rest of the fuse'* in the panel are all light up the bulb

and i have tried different igition switch off my moms 2005 cavliar
no change

do you know what the brown wire or the little green wire does

i or the other wires i cant see why i turn the ignition why the fans dont come on and i take it the 2 red Igntion wires go directly to the 50 amp fuse in the fuse hold

any other ideas to test

so I tried my code scanner
pluged it in the odb… the Dash made some motor nosies and I saw the tach rpm arms move a bit
but then nothing and code reader couldn't do anything

this was with key on and off no change did the same as above I just mentioned

If you have battery voltage at those red power wires at the ignition switch but it won't light a test light you might have corroded wire from the fuse box to the switch not allowing the amperage needed to power a loaded circuit. That comes from the 50 amp IGN fuse in the under hood fuse box. Hope this is helpful

ya thats what i thought and ended up doing... i took the fuse box apart some the battery cable to the block was corred kinda so i cleaned it wasnt the issue and the single wire from the 50 amp seemed ok.. but i couldnt find where it goes 1 wire into 2 wires at the ignition
so what i did was i ran 2 wires from the ignition to the battery fuses with 2 fuse holders 25 amps a piece

and i found i can not solder 10 gauge wire with a soldering gun what a pain in *** i did the Eye Hole and tried to solder was that was a usless effort lol was tough

now i got the car working again but the interior light stays on untill i start driving then it goes out when i come to a stop light damn interior lights come back on lol

i going to try to spray the door switches with some contact cleaner or starter fluid..

but ya that was the issue false positive for ignition wires