2000 LS impala 3.8 stalls - GM Forum - Buick, Cadillac, Chev, Olds, GMC & Pontiac chat


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Old 05-23-2014, 08:08 PM   #1
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Default 2000 LS impala 3.8 stalls

Hi again guys, i need your expert advise again.

my impala ls 3.8 V6 stalls when driving no matter the speed, the engine turn off and start agains but dies right away, if you restart the engine it keeps running for some seconds then dies again.

it can be restarted if you wait some time -5 to 10 minutes- and put the key on acc and back to off 5-10 times with interval of 5 secs each.

i changed the fuel filter and it stopped the problem for some days, now it happened again but restarted sooner than with the old fuel filter "that was all dirty".

what could it be? the fuel pump? or the iac? or another thing?.

i scanned it and theres no error or code.

thanks in advise.
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Old 05-23-2014, 08:20 PM   #2
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Old 05-23-2014, 10:12 PM   #3
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No codes? Your ABS light is on....

Does this happen more when cold or when hot?

When car won't restart, disconnect the MAF sensor, and then see if it starts....if it does, shut off and reconnect it...now try to start...if it doesn't chances are it'* a MAF problem....you can try cleaning the sensing wire, but that rarely works.....

Another thing to check is the vac line to the fuel pressure regulator.....if it has fuel in it, the f/p regulator is leaking.....

Can try removing the IAC and cleaning the pintle and the passageway, and also cleaning the throttle plate and bore....

If those three things are not your problem, you are going to have to get a fuel pressure gauge on the vehicle to observe pressure when it acts up and stalls...
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Old 05-23-2014, 10:32 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tech II View Post
No codes? Your ABS light is on....

Does this happen more when cold or when hot?

When car won't restart, disconnect the MAF sensor, and then see if it starts....if it does, shut off and reconnect it...now try to start...if it doesn't chances are it'* a MAF problem....you can try cleaning the sensing wire, but that rarely works.....

Another thing to check is the vac line to the fuel pressure regulator.....if it has fuel in it, the f/p regulator is leaking.....

Can try removing the IAC and cleaning the pintle and the passageway, and also cleaning the throttle plate and bore....

If those three things are not your problem, you are going to have to get a fuel pressure gauge on the vehicle to observe pressure when it acts up and stalls...
Thanks but the car from the video is not my car, it just have a similar problem.
And the problem happens no matter the car temp.
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Old 05-24-2014, 01:06 AM   #5
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A bad crank sensor is natorious for this symptom.
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Old 05-24-2014, 01:27 AM   #6
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Fuel pump could be getting hot and quitting on you as well. I would get a fuel pressure gauge and drive it with the gauge taped to the windshield where you can monitor it. If it droops below 48 psi the pump is no good.
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Old 05-24-2014, 06:28 PM   #7
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thanks guys.

monday i will check fuel pressure, and the maf and crankshaft position sensor (which looks dirty and bad).
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Old 05-27-2014, 11:47 AM   #8
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so i checket the fuel pressure and is over 100

looks like the fuel pump battery is a generic one and is making the fuel pump overheat cause is making it work too hard.

or thats what the mechanic said.

is that correct?
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Old 05-27-2014, 12:03 PM   #9
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I hope you were looking at kPa instead of psi. Never seen an OEM fuel pump push 100psi.


Looking at my fuel pressure tester, if you looked at 100kPa, that would convert to about 12psi. Which is far below what a 3800 engine needs to run. You need about 45ish psi to run.
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Old 05-27-2014, 12:29 PM   #10
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Your symptoms sound so familiar. Your fuel pump assy looks identical to the one in my Grand Prixs and shows it contains the same fuel harness upgrade in the Airtex brand kit. The factory harness connector sucked and caused voltage problems for the pump and low voltage is not your friend when it comes to electronics and motors. If the fuel pump is not receiving the proper voltage, it would be more likely that the harness upgrade would cure an electrical issue rather than a battery no matter what the brand. A bad battery would affect every system on the car, not just the fuel pump.

If it is the pump, you will want to do the wiring upgrade, and not sure exactly how your wiring is routed but on the Grand Prix, we used the waterproof butt connectors to splice in the new harness to avoid corrosion from moisture in the future. A small shot of dielectric grease in the connector first, insert and crimp the wires and then the heat gun to shrink the outer heat shrink coating and they're literally corrosion proof forever. I would also recommend using a 'real' wire crimper and not a pair of pliers.

Good luck but I think Mike'* calculations are right and if so , you sound like a new fuel pump and harness upgrade is in your future.
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