that version the resistance is in the ign cyl

The point of the resistor is to make sure the car will only start with the proper key. Doesn't putting the resistor in the ignition cylinder defeat that? I'm not questioning what you said, but that does not make sense.

I agree, it sounds like somebody bypassed it, and the bypass may be failing.
To my knowledge he should have the resistor pellet in the key, unless bypassed.
The key has the resistance, and the ign cylinder contacts contact the pellet, and send the resistance values to the theft deterrent module.

I think that relearn may work, but there is a chance another bypass will need to be installed.
If it has proper fuel pressure, and that does not work, then I'd examine the MAF if you have not already done so, the tip on mine came loose. and would spin, causing occasional non start conditions, and rough idle.

are there any websites where i can run the vin and find out if it had it stock?

not saying it makes sense only that if your key is the type that doesnt have plus symbol everything is in the ign

Actually, Justin is right. In my research yesterday I found the 2000 Impala SS has the resistor in the key, and the other models did not. The process I posted is specifically for those vehicles that do not have the resistor in the key. It is not a re-learn process, since it will not correct the problem. It will simply let you start the car, and if it works, tells you for sure the issue is in the lock cylinder.

We still don't know for certain VATS is the issue, but tying that proceedure will identify the issue, or eliminate one possibility.

well, here is an update. just to clarify, the security light was not on, however it does flash when you take the key out and for a second when you put the key in/start the car.

that being said, i went to the dealer with the vin number and they told me the car did not come with a chip key from the factory however it does have a "passlock sensor" as the shop manager worded it that could be malfunctioning.

the car has not moved since this problem because lauren is not permitted to drive as per doctors orders, and i do not want to be stranded at work 25 miles away. I did start the car and remove the vacuum hose from the fuel pressure regulator for about 5 minutes of run time with no leaking. this was enough time for the car to get to 165*F in the 78* weather.

that'* all for an update I have for now. it being an intermittant problem, and adding the fact that the car hasn't done anything like this in the 3,000 miles we have owned it im not sure how to diagnose this intermittent problem. the dealer said they would only charge $35 to look at it, so i guess friday when I'm off ill drop it off and hopefully they can tell me something I might be missing with the techII

today, i went to move the car to mow and it ran fine the whole 30 or so seconds i had it running. went and got in it to cool off from mowing, and after about 90 seconds of it running, it starts acting like its got a wayy high lift cam in it. jumping from 1500 rpm to 500 and so on. eventually it ended up not being able to idle on its own and kept dying. after a few swear words and a cigarette, i tried again, this time it seemed to be firing on about 2 cylinders and was pouring gas into the exhaust. (ungodly bad gas smell from the exhaust.) in the second video i said i smell smoke. i later found out from a neighbor, there was a fire in the exhaust, i assume the catalytic converter set the gas on fire.

i checked the FPR the other day, and after 5 mins of run time, no gas came out. smelling of the tube after all this mess today, i did smell gas faintly.

here are the videos. this car does not have VATS so that isnt the issue.



thanks again guys.

i just had a thought. (i know, rare that i thought for myself) could this be caused by a bad tps? my thought is if the car thinks its at about half throttle it could be flooding itself out. i can try the one from my car, but im kinda afraid of frying it. lol