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I did some research and found this. the number on your emissions label is your engine family. 740J4U. All Buick engines start with 740 , Chevy 710, Olds 730, Pontiac 720, and Cadillac 760 at least for 1977. and then there are the numbers after the first 3 that show engine size and something to do with emissions. I googled "GM 740J4U" and came up with this.
An EPA book on emissions for 1977 cars. It lists your VR ID Code as such: G7-4-1. G is for General Motors, 7 is for the last digit in the model yr. but I don't know what the 4 is for. There are 5 of the last number. G7-4-1 thru G7-4-5. Don't ask me what a VR code is. It might be an EPA number for there testing. And finally it shows a manufacturer vehicle code of 7160F1 7160F3, 4, 5 and 6. oddly enough it skips 2. It don't know if helps at all. but I thought I'd share it.
just found this! check it out. https://www.classicindustries.com/pr.../gn110258.html this decal is for a 77 Buick Regal but according to the number it'* an Olds engine. you could try calling them.
TommyB, Thanks for taking time to research this. It'* like everything else with restoring my Buick. Replacement parts and info for Buick'* aren't easily available as it is for almost any Chevy model. I have replicated my label using "Affinity Design" software and will use the family code AY that I took from the example I posted before. It is a 77 model Buick with 350 4 BBL and turbo 350. It may be different than what was original from the factory, but I am not going to display and claim it is an "all original survivor car".
Thanks again to everyone that replied for their input and information.
Keep these older cars running as long as we can!
I have made a few decals on Testors (remember this name from scale model building days?) decal paper for 1/16th scale custom tractors, but I don't think that will work for this. I may try it and see if I can apply it to a test piece of painted steel sheet and clear over it. The original label has a silver gray background and my ink jet printer won't print on anything slick. It just lays on the surface and doesn't dry. I am going to check with local print shops that makes signs and banners. I can save my file as several different formats, so it shouldn't be an issue getting it printed.
TommyB, Thanks for taking time to research this. It'* like everything else with restoring my Buick. Replacement parts and info for Buick'* aren't easily available as it is for almost any Chevy model. I have replicated my label using "Affinity Design" software and will use the family code AY that I took from the example I posted before. It is a 77 model Buick with 350 4 BBL and turbo 350. It may be different than what was original from the factory, but I am not going to display and claim it is an "all original survivor car".
Thanks again to everyone that replied for their input and information.
Keep these older cars running as long as we can!
