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Old 01-29-2016, 07:48 PM   #11
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So I spent the morning watching a person at Oreilly'* try to test the ICM for like an hour and completely fail then went to another one and within 5 minutes they got it hooked up and it passed.

The cam sensor is really easy to replace so I bought and installed it and it seemed to fix the problem. Timing took a few minutes to settle down (computer resets and whatnot) but eventually smoothed out. Drove it around the block a couple times and acceleration seemed fine. It is possible that moving around the wires while taking out the ICM and everything undid a short. Also got to clean off the ICM with alcohol, clean up the grounds, all that good stuff. Fingers crossed this fixes the problem and is not a crank sensor on its way out. We'll see within a few days likely whether it did the trick or not.
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Old 01-29-2016, 08:45 PM   #12
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It still does have a slight issue that its had for quite a while now. In addition to the lack of acceleration I think I mentioned earlier when the engine is cold, when the engine is warm and I go to start it after letting it sit for a bit (10+ minutes), the idle drops down to around 700 within a few seconds and it stumbles a decent amount for roughly a minute but never dies. The idle smooths out after a bit and runs fine. Could this be a related issue?
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Old 01-30-2016, 01:27 AM   #13
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The IAC (intake air control) controls idle and you could try removing it for cleaning.
https://www.gmforum.com/normal-maint...800-v6-307092/
Also just wondering, have you ever replaced the spark plugs & wires on the car?
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Old 01-31-2016, 04:21 AM   #14
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Last time I had the intake off the car I did clean the MAF sensor and replaced the throttle position sensor but don't recall cleaning the IAC so probably a good future project. Spark plug have around 15k and wires have around 5k on them. The plugs are the bosch platinum which I've read aren't great for wasted spark ignition system but they seem fine at the moment.

So I drove the car on the freeway today (20 miles) and on the way back home the engine died for probably half a second and set off a code 17 and 18. Thankfully the engine seemed to find itself while it still had momentum and kept running. This time it was while accelerating. The engine is running pretty much fine other than that. Im thinking failing crank sensor. Any thoughts considering these new symptoms? Thanks
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Old 01-31-2016, 11:32 AM   #15
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I am still thinking Crank Sensor, ICM, or wiring. You can check wiring first because that'* free, and then I wouldn't feel guilty about whacking in a crank sensor. Keep in mind the crank sensor replacement requires pulling the harmonic balancer, which requires a lot of torque (or a very good impact gun) and a puller with non standard bolts. Also have a good look at the harmonic balancer to see if it will need to be replaced soon due to age of the rubber. If it'* original, it may be coming up due anyway.
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Old 02-01-2016, 12:04 AM   #16
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I ordered a new ACDelco crankshaft sensor and 195 thermostat this morning so hopefully it'll be here by tomorrow. My dad has a harbor freight impact wrench so I'll try using that and see what happens. My mechanic tried replacing the Crank Sensor a year or so ago but it didn't fix a code 18 and he wanted 200 for the ACDelco part so I said stick the old one back in. Moral of the story is that the bolt shouldn't be frozen in place. From what I've read it looks like I need to go out and but some 1/4" fine thread bolts that are 4" long in addition to the rental puller so I'll go pick those up too.
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Old 02-12-2016, 02:05 AM   #17
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So to give an update, I installed the new crankshaft position sensor and the engine runs a lot smoother when it runs well. At startup is still has issues and it almost seems like its not firing on all cylinders, almost like a back and forth sound in the engine. After running for a bit it all of a sudden smooths out. Its almost like a coil pack isn't working then all of sudden works. I did an ohm meter test on all the connections on the ICM connector and didn't appear to be any shorts to ground, so the wiring should be alright.

Could the ICM going bad display these symptoms? What are the typical failing ICM symptoms? Or is it maybe a coil pack thing? Like I said it runs like poop (mostly when warm and having sat for an hour) then after a bit runs great. I swapped in the old ecm and the problem still occurred so likely not that. I haven't checked the coils' primary resistance but the fact that it can idle smoothly leads me to things there is not a short aka their fine. Thanks for the help
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Old 02-15-2016, 06:27 AM   #18
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Did you do a ohm test on each coil pack?
Unplug the wires going to it, and check to see that each has close to the same readings.

When you cleaned the MAF what type of cleaner did you use?

You don't run a A&N oiled air filter do you?
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Old 02-27-2016, 06:34 AM   #19
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I cleaned the MAF sensor with some rubbing alcohol last week and it helped quite a bit with driveability and acceleration. Last time (year or too ago) when I cleaned it I used computer duster. From inspection one of the wires on the sensor was unraveled, but I believe this to be the self-cleaning wires, not signal wires. There was some small metal shavings on it (as well as the Crank Sensor) but this might of been from my AC clutch getting shredded over the summer. I changed the oil and there was no metal or coolant in the oil which is good.

I use a normal air cleaner. Side note, I checked the EGR valve since its easy to check and its fine.

The idle is pretty good. Sometimes it will randomly shoot up to around 1300 from 700 when I put it quickly into park and sometime it will switch between 700 and 900 but good enough for government work. The TPS sensor plug-in plastic is pretty cracked but it seems to work fine.

There still is a weird issue (less common now) where it idles roughly when I go to start it after about an hour. One the passenger side of the hood, the paint is blackened from smoke but never visibly smokes which is weird. Today when I felt it the fender/side of the hood was still warm after a few hours, but only in this one spot. The car has a bad exhaust leak at the flange gasket to the down pipe and maybe heat rises. in a weird direction.
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Old 02-27-2016, 04:24 PM   #20
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The MAF should have 2 wires, both are self cleaning, well for the most part, as they both heat up, and when cooled that is how the amount of airflow coming in is measured, my MAF looks almost exactly like yours, but I don't remember seeing any unraveled wires on it, it would be good if you could get a pic of it, but you'd need a decent camera able to take macro shots to really get a pic of it that we could see wires in.
This is what the wires should look like, it is hard to see them, but atm it is the best pic I can find.

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