Leaking Fluid through Magnasteer Pinion on Rack
#1
Leaking Fluid through Magnasteer Pinion on Rack
Hi All,
I've had enough with PS fluid under the 99 Lesabre Custom. I discovered the fluid is coming from where the steering linkage meets the rack. In this model I think this is the magnasteer device. I do not suspect an internal leak at this time.
Is it possible to fix the leak without removing/replacing the rack. Perhaps by replacing a seal around the pinion?
If not possible please recommend a good re-manufactured rack.
Thanks in advance,
RW
I've had enough with PS fluid under the 99 Lesabre Custom. I discovered the fluid is coming from where the steering linkage meets the rack. In this model I think this is the magnasteer device. I do not suspect an internal leak at this time.
Is it possible to fix the leak without removing/replacing the rack. Perhaps by replacing a seal around the pinion?
If not possible please recommend a good re-manufactured rack.
Thanks in advance,
RW
#2
Replaced the original rack with a remanufactured one from O'Reilly. The rack did not inspire confidence being crudely sprayed with black paint and no country of origin sticker (but I can assume..). It did work though for a month and then began leaking worse than the original and in the same spot. I estimate it leaked 4 ounces a day which is a huge percentage of the total capacity. My parking space looks like I changed the oil without a pan. I contacted O'Reilly who ordered another one (warrantee) which looked much better. No cheap black paint spayed haphazardly. The new one came with replacement o-rings and instructions. It has been a week and no leaks. Need to get the Magnasteer recalibrated but I’m happy for now.
Don't attempt this job without a lift. The first replacement took a full day and the second took 5 hours so I'm getting better.
Don't attempt this job without a lift. The first replacement took a full day and the second took 5 hours so I'm getting better.
The following 3 users liked this post by Rusty_Wrench:
#3
Followup - I spilled so much PS fluid in this area that I suspect it damaged the speed sensor because the speedometer started bouncing erratically. These cost about $20 on ebay and are easy to replace. Maybe this will fix it. I'll let you know.
#4
Senior Member
Posts like a Turbo
Rusty Wrench
Looks like I need to swap out a rack and pinion myself. Just curious how you went about doing it in 5 hours. Did you remove the exhaust ?? The last time i did this, I took the sway bar loose and lowered the front subframe enough to get the rack out the drivers side wheel well. It took me considerably longer than 5 hrs.
Looks like I need to swap out a rack and pinion myself. Just curious how you went about doing it in 5 hours. Did you remove the exhaust ?? The last time i did this, I took the sway bar loose and lowered the front subframe enough to get the rack out the drivers side wheel well. It took me considerably longer than 5 hrs.
#5
Rusty Wrench
Looks like I need to swap out a rack and pinion myself. Just curious how you went about doing it in 5 hours. Did you remove the exhaust ?? The last time i did this, I took the sway bar loose and lowered the front subframe enough to get the rack out the drivers side wheel well. It took me considerably longer than 5 hrs.
Looks like I need to swap out a rack and pinion myself. Just curious how you went about doing it in 5 hours. Did you remove the exhaust ?? The last time i did this, I took the sway bar loose and lowered the front subframe enough to get the rack out the drivers side wheel well. It took me considerably longer than 5 hrs.
I've done this job twice (thanks to O-Re_ill_ys) and the first time was an all day+ event. You can do it if you have a lift, torque wrench, some instructions and patience. Also money for an alignment but take some measurement before you remove the tie-rods.
#6
A lift made it all possible. No need to remove exhaust. Lower subframe is a must. First disconnect rack from steering column and tie-rods. (Take measurements first for alignment). Put a tranny jack under subframe for support and safety. Loosen back subframe bolts (closest to passenger compartment). Loosen front bolts a bit then lower frame an inch or two. Lowered frame make it easier to get at bolts holding rack to frame.
Tip - Loosen passenger side rack bolts from the bottom since top is just a nut welded to frame and it won't budge.
Tip - if you have magna-steer there will be a electrical connector to disconnect. Also there is a way to program magna-steer but I did not do this since a computer was not available.
Tip - Putting jack under tranny crushed by cheapo pan seal seal. I later replaced the seal the night my wife left me. Lesson learned: don't buy cheap "foamy" seals, don't put support for everything on tranny pan, and don't treat wife like college roomy.
Anyway you can do it with a lift, instructions, torque wrench, and time.
Good Luck,
RW
Tip - Loosen passenger side rack bolts from the bottom since top is just a nut welded to frame and it won't budge.
Tip - if you have magna-steer there will be a electrical connector to disconnect. Also there is a way to program magna-steer but I did not do this since a computer was not available.
Tip - Putting jack under tranny crushed by cheapo pan seal seal. I later replaced the seal the night my wife left me. Lesson learned: don't buy cheap "foamy" seals, don't put support for everything on tranny pan, and don't treat wife like college roomy.
Anyway you can do it with a lift, instructions, torque wrench, and time.
Good Luck,
RW
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