You are correct, the fuel lines coming into the engine compartment are coated steel.

The engine will run on starter fluid.

The info I found online about the fuel pump primer wire said to apply + battery voltage. If I use my test light wire to make the connection between battery + and the primer connector, it lights. I also get a spark at the battery when I make the connection with copper wire. If I connect to the - battery terminal I get no spark and no light. However, the pump will not run when I apply voltage to the primer wire. It does come on for 2 seconds when I turn the ignition.

Put 12V on the primer and see what you get at the relay. An open primer will not interfere with pump operation.
You need to check pressure.

As I recall, there was a small black hose that had to be connected, and I also recall a white corrugated hose in the assembly. The kit did not come with a new black hose; I reused the old one. I am attaching a photo of what came in the kit.

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The fuel rail does not have a schrader valve. I will have to buy or borrow a tool to check the fuel pressure. "Deadhead pressure" means the fuel line is connected and the engine is not running, correct?

I wanted to try removing the connector to the fuel pump/oil pressure switch and jumpering the connector. This is shown on the upper right of the second page of the wiring diagram. One wire is Gray and the other is Pink/Black. The diagram says the switch is located at the lower right rear of the engine but I have not been able to locate it. The car is not on a lift and I do not have access to one.

Looks correct if it has OE modules:

I wanted to post an update for the benefit of anyone who may have had a similar problem.
The engine is running now. There are some other repairs still needed, but the fuel pressure has been restored. This is what I did.
I ended up replacing the pump and fuel gauge sending unit with an entire new unit because the sending unit of the old one was unrepairable. I also replaced the fuel tank because of a crack in the plastic reservoir inside the tank, as well as a desire to eliminate problems due to corrosion or varnished gas. I then removed the fuel rail and injectors and ensured that each was opening and allowing fuel to pass through. (Initially all 6 were clogged.) I replaced the filter baskets and injector o-rings, and cleaned the inside of the rail with a soft brush and carb cleaner. I also replaced the fuel pressure regulator as it was stuck closed.
Basically, after the car sat in the garage for 17 years with a nearly full tank of fuel, every part of the fuel system required service or replacement.

Wow, that'* pretty much everything. Glad to hear it is happy now. Thanks for letting us know how it turned out!