I'm having a hard time with all the laughing I'm doing.The JB Weld would never hold up under any kind of pressure.

Here is someone else using similar product..I will either make you laugh again (which is great for the soul) or you might come around to different perspective.

I'm not laughing because I've never tried it. I have used JB Weld on several different applications and I know what it can do.
Now they have low temp welding that is not actually welding but is a lot like brazing. Works like solder but much stronger.
Never tried that either but hear good things that may be fine for some applications but as for a cracked cylinder there is only one fix. Replace the sleeve.

Pretty clearly damaged right here:



. . . and I can't see most of that piston nor the other pistons.

Damage to the cylinder wall was caused by lack of coolant as described in Post #139, not by impact damage.

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. . . and it was losing coolant along the way. If you drove it two or three times as far before turning it off, it probably would have have run most of the way out of coolant and seized itself.

Hokey.

Fiction.

Comedy.

Waste of time.

Waste of money (for the JB Weld and for the "mechanic" time assembling it then having it fail because of the JB Weld and the "mechanic".

But mostly a hokey repair based entirely on fiction that will waste time.

Pressure. Heat. Geometry change. LOL. JB Weld is good for 500 degrees Fahrenheit. Combustion temperatures are good for up to 4,500 degrees Fahrenheit. There'* some BS.

I love the part where they sand it smooth in a cylinder wall. Now there'* hardly any JB Weld left, the cylinder is out of round from the crack, now it'* more out of round from the "sanding". The hone would be gone here, and the rings wouldn't seal. It would consume oil and vibrate from low compression. Eventually there'd be ring damage. Then it lasted for years. SurrrRRrRRrRrrrrre! Maybe it lasted for years while parked and never started.

I'm typing this through my tears. I'm sad to see that 695 others have seen this and might have tried this.

CathedralCub, You implied that cylinder wall was damaged because engine overheated due to lack of coolant. There was lack of coolant because of damage to the wall (assuming the head was no other leaking..seems reasonable now that we know cylinder was leaking). This seems like a circular argument as if the cylinder started fine then no coolant should have leaked and thus no overheating. It didn't overheat during the time I was driving it.

When I implied that, it was while I was saying it straight up front in writing.

I doubt it. A head gasket and then the head will typically fail way way way before a block cracks.

Bonus: Your picture shows the crack down low in the cylinder bore, and yet no coolant has been reported in the engine oil. How could this happen on an engine that loses over a liter of coolant in 100km and then fills at least one cylinder with more coolant when it is parked. Even if the piston stopped all the way down there every single time you shut off the engine, hundreds of kilometers of driving and coolant loss through a crack that low would have put some coolant into the crankcase . . . and then the engine would have quit sooner and seized up more readily.

This is an assumption not supported by evidence that I've seen.

Not really reasonable to assume that the cylinder wall was leaking first. It is reasonable to assume the head gasket leaked first.

It'* not circular. If the head or head gasket started leaking first, all of these problems would have followed including the cracked cylinder wall. If the cylinder wall started leaking first, there would have been lots of coolant in the oil.

Just because it didn't tell you that it was hot on the dash, doesn't mean it had no heat issues in the engine. If you had driven it farther between stops, it would have lost the rest of the coolant that it was consuming then overheated and likely seized up.

It makes zero difference what caused what. The fact is that engine needs to be rebuilt by someone who knows what they are doing.

I was thinking something similar, but had already typed enough. It seems that, as of Post #157, jungloverano has suddenly become convinced that this crack is the cause of all of this engine'* woes, and it could not have happened any other way even though we've predicted this kind of thing for months now . . . nevermind all of the poor assembly the "mechanic" has done with the head and head gasket over and over and over and over. I suspect the "mechanic" has concocted this story . . . ? jungloverano could tell us for sure.

I know I've probably come off as having a vendetta against this "mechanic". At the same time, the facts presented here have displayed countless times that this mechanic is negligent, contrary, dishonest, arbitrary, irresponsible, poorly skilled, and is taking advantage of jungloverano repeatedly. Maybe it is that the "mechanic" got in over his head on this one. That'* fine too, but then he can do the right thing and eat the cost to make it right, learn a lesson, and move on to the next repair. This car hasn't run properly for 347 days now, and I know that isn't all the "mechanic", but a significant and costly part of it is.

Now it is so bad that jungloverano is talking about using epoxy to seal the crack, sell the car, and let some other poor sap deal with this nightmare by surprise. I can understand what drives owners to do that, but at the same time it'* a pretty crummy move that I've had to deal with for friends and on one of my own cars.

Or better yet, toss this block because repairing it will cost more than the car is worth, then buy a good used engine that this "mechanic" has no business disassembling. Then take the hulk of a car, the engine, and a bucket of all the other parts, to a real mechanic for installation.

Too bad Canada doesn't have better laws on this kind of thing. He'* got most of a good legal case (in the US at least) documented right here in GMForum.