engine died coming to a stop.
I am definitely going to try the starter motor technique for loosening the crank bolt. It is such a pain to do the others. Waiting to see if Olefart succeeds. Am really interested. By the way I read a lot of stuff about the 1994 and 1995 Buicks,Pontiac, Oldmobiles with the V6 and problems with the PCM/ECM . In the event that this becomes an issue what should the repair route be junk yard or new?
Really appreciate the help here. Jim
Really appreciate the help here. Jim
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Posts like a 4 Banger
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 107
Likes: 4
From: Wyoming

update; using the starter is the only way to loosen that balancer bolt. worked great with breaker bar.
went from, no crank no start, to crank no start.
okay I change out the icm and was able to get car started and it would run till it got to 187 degrees and it would shut down. After cooling down it would run again till it reached 187 then shut down. Was able to slowly get car home this way.
changed out the crank sensor and it has gone through a few heat cycles without shutting down, so I believe this is fixed. I hope.lol
I did learn to use a breaker bar and bump the starter to loosen the crank bolt.
I would like to thank all for the help an hints to get through this.
went from, no crank no start, to crank no start.
okay I change out the icm and was able to get car started and it would run till it got to 187 degrees and it would shut down. After cooling down it would run again till it reached 187 then shut down. Was able to slowly get car home this way.
changed out the crank sensor and it has gone through a few heat cycles without shutting down, so I believe this is fixed. I hope.lol
I did learn to use a breaker bar and bump the starter to loosen the crank bolt.
I would like to thank all for the help an hints to get through this.
This is good to hear. I am definitely going to try the starter motor bumping technique for breaking loose the bolt holding on the harmonic balancer/ crankshaft pulley. By the way another Buick guy tells me that the bolt does not need to be replaced as the manual says. It is so beefy that I would not have thought it necessary either.
Would like to hear from Ole Fart after a week or two to make sure that this problem is really fixed though it sure sounds like it has been fixed. I am thinking of driving my car across the US and don't want a breakdown on the way. Been there and done that a couple of times. Would also like comments on this ECM/PCM or computer. Is it worth while to have a spare and should it be new? I have become very fond of this forum. Thanks to all.
Would like to hear from Ole Fart after a week or two to make sure that this problem is really fixed though it sure sounds like it has been fixed. I am thinking of driving my car across the US and don't want a breakdown on the way. Been there and done that a couple of times. Would also like comments on this ECM/PCM or computer. Is it worth while to have a spare and should it be new? I have become very fond of this forum. Thanks to all.
The method for loosening the crankshaft bolt by using the starter motor is truly wonderful. I used the passenger side motor mount to brace a breaker bar against. Worked like a charm. I never would have thought of doing this. Compared to the method I use the first time this is really easy. Now I am making sure there is not an intermittent wiring problem with the crank pos. sensor wiring. The new Crank. Position Sensor is in place. Later today I should have got it all back together to see if works correctly. Thanks to everyone on this forum.
i have to do this on my inlaws lesabre next weekend, hoping the impact wrench will work to get that bolt out. i dont really like the idea of doing it with the starter i dont think
Update. I got it all back together with the new Crankshaft Pos. Sensor. Started right up and ran well but the SES light came on with the first start. I drove it to a local garage and got it inspected as it was expired. After I got back I scanned for trouble codes but the engine would not start. It cranked fine but would not fire. The trouble code that is there now is Cam Pos. sensor failure P 0342. This is a code that has been there for some time. There is also now no spark. I have replaced the cam position sensor, the ignition control module and the crankshaft pos. sensor and checked the continuity of the wires to both of the position sensors of which seem to be good. Any ideas?
Justin I did not much like the idea of doing this with the starter motor either but I had so much trouble with the impact wrench getting the crank bolt off the first time I tried the starter motor technique and it is the way to go for sure. I used the passenger motor mount for bracing the breaker bar and just bumped the starter switch. Came loose just like that. I had to get a more powerful impact wrench to get it loose before and I really hammered on it. Using the starter motor is probably easier on everything.
i have a pretty decent one, guess i will know after i try.
do you have a scanner with live data or a tach, you should be able to see if you have or dont have a rpm indication when its quit. maybe one of the plugs is bad at the pcm or one of the sensors, the cam and crank go to the icm first then the pcm
do you have a scanner with live data or a tach, you should be able to see if you have or dont have a rpm indication when its quit. maybe one of the plugs is bad at the pcm or one of the sensors, the cam and crank go to the icm first then the pcm



