hahaha….. yes, I used a scissor jack in past without a jack stand and it broke literally the moment I was squatting down to get under the car. That scared the *#*# right out of me, lesson definitely learned.
I plan to look at the wire situation later today hopefully it’* the source of my issues and can be fixed without much difficulty.

Omg… this is a complete nightmare!! I have a circuit tester with power probe and was going to test connections etc…. I’ve still not found damaged wires and I’ve looked everywhere but under carpets. I unplugged the connector for the door actuator (not sure if that’* the proper name for it, but it works with climate stuff) it’* located on passenger side just to the left underneath the glove box. The moment I unplugged it the hazard light started blinking inside and outside the car. But only on the driver side. I plugged the connector back in and it would not shut off. I had the key in the on position and the hazard light only stopped when I removed the key. I pulled the relay for the hazard because I have no clue what to do. I started my car this morning and … my tachometer and speedometer both do not work, the buttons on dash do not work except for the mile info and the reset button. The mileage does not go up when driving. I drove 20 miles today and it still shows the mileage that I started with before I left my house. So now the odometer is not accurate. There’* a list of things not working, no buttons on any door. The fuses pop for all four door modules when I replace them. No dome lights or cigar lighter. The fuse box under back seat seems warmer than what it should be. However, bright side of it all…. My ac started working for first time since I bought it!! Woohoo!! I’m at a loss here, do I just start replacing modules? Bcm to start???

Definitely not. You have a bunch of circuits crossed or something there. If you go replacing modules, you could damage the new modules.

I need to just take the time to study and become familiar with the schematics and wiring diagrams for everything. There are just so many things going on and a lot of information to take in I have no clue where to start

I wouldn't try to learn or memorize everything to figure this out. I'd pull all the fuses and then strategically add one fuse at a time and test one system at a time until problems crop up, then chase each problem in the diagram and in real life.

I didn’t think of that, thank you. I put an obd reader on it that is able to test control modules and go in depth with live data. It’* a four system scanner and not one module showed on my car. I went through everything on the system with no results. It did show a Fault status for the MIL Curcuit, EVAP Vent Solenoid curcuit, and TCS Curcuit. I am considering selling it, my luck with vehicles the past 3.5yrs has been something else. Thank you so much for all the advice, I appreciate it!!

If the scanner doesn't show the different modules it'* a PCM only scanner. You need a better tool.

I plugged the scanner into my Mazda and the modules popped up instantly on the quick scan. I read the manual and followed step by step on how to test/scan the modules. The Buick showed nothing at all for modules, the Mazda had a list and I was able to go into each module for info on them.
I was told to unplug both battery cables and zip tie them together, being sure they are touching each other, for about 15mins. Then run diagnostics again to see if modules show after that. I’m afraid to do anything at all. I unplug one connector and bam 10 more new electrical issues. The 10 isnt an exaggeration unfortunately.

I bet you need to buy the software to do the Buick.I own a 2001 Le Sabre and my Genysis gets all the modules and you'll be able to use bi-controls to command the door locks and much more.

I thought about running an update on the scanner software but decided against it because my boss loaned it to me. I will look into purchasing Buick software and go from there. Thank you so much!