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Old Jul 18, 2014 | 05:08 PM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by 75 racer
While the LIM is off you should send it to the metal polisher and make is shinny!
Might as well fix that roundtuit also.
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Old Jul 18, 2014 | 11:57 PM
  #32  
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Coming along I see, nice!

you could do what I did, dip in in purple power grease remover, then scrub it real good, also went ahead and port matched each runner, as the casting job was poor, I made sure not to totally smooth them out though, just made them all 1.9" x .9" and knocked off the rough casting inside the runners.
NOTE: I did not match them to the gasket, because I did not want to remove the heads, and do the same.
I have pics somewhere around here..
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Old Jul 19, 2014 | 07:04 AM
  #33  
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looks alot better than mine did. mine had a few spots were stuff was leaking and getting everywhere
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Old Jul 19, 2014 | 06:13 PM
  #34  
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Default Finished Install & Test Drive Today!

All is now good under the hood!
Was still working into evening after a couple hours of beer/snooze break..

Overall went well & mating surfaces were prepped/cleaned...Polishing..ha ha..


Is it ok to curse while trying to line up the elbow?

I did manage to align with no leaks!

All Done! You could say I finally fixed the roundtuit Mike!

New PCV, Iridium Plugs, TB Ports Cleaned etc, Car has never run better!
Just took on hwy for 1 hour, windows down heat on, temp sits perfect at 195F.
No coolant loss may have to just add a bit of coolant after cool down cycle to reservoir marks now though...
Attached Thumbnails Dorman Intake Questions-buickaluminumelbow_zps73fa2f46.jpg   Dorman Intake Questions-buicknewgasketsdone_zpsd49dfb4e.jpg   Dorman Intake Questions-buickintakeclean_zps6f8b5ab9.jpg  
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Old Jul 19, 2014 | 08:32 PM
  #35  
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Better late then never when it comes to that roundtuit.
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Old Jul 20, 2014 | 02:12 PM
  #36  
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Onto bleeding system again.
Let car sit for 12 hours to cool. Pull rad cap, & needs more coolant, add some, squeeze upper rad hose nothing but air. Not taking it from reservoir yet.
With cap on, while warming up squeeze upper & lower rad hose open bleeder screw, I hear & see some air bubbles and slight coolant come out...good.
Wait until it'* hot & thermostat open and open bleed screw again..hey more air coming out until it is just a solid stream of coolant.
I think I may have to repeat all of this for a few days...
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Old Jul 20, 2014 | 02:41 PM
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Did you drill the small hole in the thermostat at the 12 o'clock position?
Or did you get that OE thermostat that has the hole with a small ball/check valve?
I drilled a hole in mine, and it was easy to bleed, I cracked the screw twice and bled it, but after that there was never anymore air in the system.
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Old Jul 20, 2014 | 02:49 PM
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i havent had issues with bleeding, just run it for a min or two cap off while with the rad higher than the engine, slight slope. then button it up and drive it the temp will spike up a bit but after the thermostat opens and it drops down you are fine and done
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Old Jul 20, 2014 | 03:08 PM
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Drilling the hole is not totally necessary, but it does make it easier to ensure no pockets of air are trapped in the system, I got the idea from a post by an old PBC Gearhead named Bill Buttermore, from a thread titled "Coolant Fill Procedure for L36 (others similar)"
I'd post a link, but it is from the PBC website, you can google it to find it easily..
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Old Jul 20, 2014 | 03:13 PM
  #40  
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i have seen it a bunch of places, but have not really seen the need. have done way more thermostats than i can remember without doing anything to them and never had an issue. as long as you run it like i said
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