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Old Jun 14, 2015 | 07:33 AM
  #41  
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I said I wasn't sure.....I just didn't recall having to replace them when I replaced the valve stem seals....manual anyone?
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Old Jun 14, 2015 | 10:32 AM
  #42  
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Originally Posted by Mad_Coachman
Correctionar was smoking today even with the A/C on . This weekend I'll change the oil,the rear valve cover gasket and check the oil returns back there.
I still have NOT checked the rear head oil returns. I may get to it today but I have my grandsons with me today and they want to go to the beach so I may not have time. I have been contemplating swapping the engine from my wrecked 1998 Olds 88 but am not sure if it'* compatible due to the redesign of motor mounts in the 2000-2005 cars.

Getting back to the problem with my Buick I had assumed that since the oil returns were clear on the front head that they were probably clear on the rear as well but now I'm thinking that whoever worked on it prior to me owning it may have just cleaned the front oil returns and gave up because of the extra work involved with doing the rear head!!!
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Old Jun 23, 2015 | 07:25 AM
  #43  
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Originally Posted by Mad_Coachman
I still have NOT checked the rear head oil returns. I may get to it today but I have my grandsons with me today and they want to go to the beach so I may not have time. I have been contemplating swapping the engine from my wrecked 1998 Olds 88 but am not sure if it'* compatible due to the redesign of motor mounts in the 2000-2005 cars.

Getting back to the problem with my Buick I had assumed that since the oil returns were clear on the front head that they were probably clear on the rear as well but now I'm thinking that whoever worked on it prior to me owning it may have just cleaned the front oil returns and gave up because of the extra work involved with doing the rear head!!!
I replaced the rear valve cover gasket and checked the oil returns hoping to find them clogged with sludge.....They were clear so that is NOT my problem. At this point I am considering taking the car to a local repair shop and have them diagnose it for me. Another alternative would be to use the engine from my wrecked 1998 Olds 88 which runs great and doesn't burn oil. Would this be feasible due to the difference in the motor mounts?
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Old Jun 26, 2015 | 10:53 PM
  #44  
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You want to change the engine instead of putting valve stem seals on ??
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Old Jun 27, 2015 | 12:23 PM
  #45  
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Originally Posted by REGAL GUY
You want to change the engine instead of putting valve stem seals on ??
The engine swap would be a last resort. I have never done valve seals but I have swapped an engine although that was 40 years ago when I was 18 years old. The only reason I would consider the swap is because I have not junked my Olds yet due to the price of scrap metal being very low at this time.
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Old Sep 5, 2015 | 09:30 AM
  #46  
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Originally Posted by REGAL GUY
I think different people have suggested different things like looking at the valve seals
but with the I guess they are called beehive valve springs you cant tell much
with out removing them
There are ways to do it with the heads on the motor
maybe you should try that
The head by the radiator first replace them all then see if the your oil burning goes
down at all then if it dose
you can do the inboard head
I changed the valve seals on the front head and it still smokes once it warms up so I am not going to bother with the rear head.
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Old Sep 5, 2015 | 12:33 PM
  #47  
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Were any of the seals broken or hard from age ? it still smokes the exact same oil use is still the same or has it gone down now ???
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Old Sep 5, 2015 | 12:50 PM
  #48  
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Originally Posted by REGAL GUY
Were any of the seals broken or hard from age ? it still smokes the exact same oil use is still the same or has it gone down now ???
Still smokes once it gets warm. As far as oil consumption I'll let you know next week. Seals were not bad.
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