I have a 1998 Buick Lesabre and I've been doing research on bypassing the VATS system. However, from what I've seen, after connecting the proper resistors together to match the resistance in the key; I'm supposed to cut into an orange cable in the steering column and then splice the resistors with two white cables inside the orange cable. I felt like I understood what I was supposed to do, but when I cut "the orange cable" it was full of many copper wires instead of two white wires. Can someone please give me some direction?? I really hope I haven't destroyed my chances of fixing this car.

I read somewhere about that... Never tried it tho. My way of by passing the Vats was to install a remote start system, or just hav the by pass module installed...

Unlike W cars, which have a connector right at the hush panel, the C and H cars run their wires all the way to a large junction block......

If you go to the large junction block, located just above the e-brake......you will see an orange sheathed line, with two white wires coming out of the end of it and it is attached in the outside edge of the block......those are the two wires you attach the resistors to.......not sure what you cut into....there are only two wires in that orange sheathe....it'* a relatively simple fix.....

Did the wire look like the one in this picture?


Taken from here.
How to bypass the VATS system in a late model GM vehicle

You should have followed the wire to the junction box Tec II mentioned, if you remove the cover/panel above that you should see the block with all the wires running into it, the end of the orange wire should look like you see in the pic.
Is there any way you can get a pic of the wires you cut?

If you can get to the power junction block, and unplug the plug with the orange wires, you could solder the resistor pack you make into the connector, then plug it back into the junction block.

William that is the lock cylinder for W and F cars.....the C and H cars don't have the plastic black connector on the end....they just have an individual female contact on the end of each wire.......those contacts "lock" into the block..... they actually insert into a "grey" harness connector that you remove from the large block....

Ahhh ok, I wondered why mine did not have that connector on the end, it just had the metal contacts that you mentioned.
I used needle nosed pliers and carefully shoved each end of my resistor pack into them, I probably should have removed the metal contact, I am pretty sure you can remove them if you do it from the backside, I could be wrong though, so far the only contact pins I have remove like that were in computers.
Someday I'll pull the block out a but and see if I can do a better job than what I did.