Well, just as an update, it was the MAF that was going bad. I'm off to the parts house to pick one up and get it all sorted. Thanks for all your suggestions. I will definitely be around to ask questions and do some reading. :0)

The TPS was installed correctly, and working like a champ. My apologies for not getting back sooner, I've been busy with work. Thanks again for your advice.

Okay, I changed the fuel filter yesterday, as well as the MAF sensor. It wasn't either of those, so I went ahead and picked up the remaining two coils today and I'm about to install them. It was a p0303 code, so I just figured since one coil was replaced by the mechanic, and not all three, it could be that. The plugs were all changed, but not the wires. I plan on checking them while I'm under the hood doing coils. It'* easy enough. That'* the update on trying to get the car into running condition.

If he replaced the coil for three it probably needs wires

Most common misfires on the 3800 is either due to plugs or wires. Mostly the wires because they don't handle heat well and they flex a lot. Which isn't good for the thin wire inside of them.

We plan on changing the wires today, haven't done it yet due to excessive rains. This morning, on the way to the corner store, the car was idling at 4000 Rpms and was accelerating on it'* own over 40 Mph. I'm hoping this is caused by the sudden temp change (I doubt), or the faulty wires. It seems like as soon as one thing is fixed, another issue comes up. When changing the coils, we found that whoever did the "tuneup" on his car put the wires in the wrong place on the coils. The #3 and #6 were reversed. (I guess the shop had it'* lackie do the job) Also, when we changed out the coils, the #2 wire was scorched on the coil. When we popped it off, it was FULL of carbon. What would cause the high idle and self induced acceleration? This is an issue that just started this morning. I just want this car to run normally. My boyfriend is getting extremely frustrated. His mechanic was supposed to have done a full tuneup already. Wires weren't replaced, neither was the fuel filter. Will give an update when I finish with the wires.

high idle can be caused by vacuum leak, iac needing cleaning carbon on the cone and seat in the throttle body, or least common tps. vacuum leak is most common. i always work on one problem at a time because thing affect other things in ways you wouldnt think about. so you definitely know the wires are bad, fix those and see where you are at

Okay, I got the sputtering sorted out this past weekend. I have now replaced the fuel filter, the TPS, the coils, the wires, and changed the oil. This upsets me, because my it'* my boyfriend'* car, and he just paid his mechanic over $200 for a friggin tune up (I could have gone shopping). Anyways~ the sputtering is gone and all seems to be well and fine in that aspect. Now, he says that when he got in his car this morning to go to work, the car seemed to be in third gear. Not only was it idling high, but it was accelerating on it'* own. I'm thinking the IAC might either need cleaned, or changed, but I am no mechanic. Am I headed in the right direction? I don't drive this car, I merely fix it for much cheaper than his "mechanic" will. I do not have gauges to check any pressure related issues, and my tool collection is limited. My second question is can I remove the honeycomb thing from the throttle body to clean it more thoroughly? I thought I might be able to pop the ring off and remove it, but rather than just doing it and risk having to replace parts, I wanted to ask first. I am still fairly new to working on cars, but have a genuine desire to learn, and no fear of getting dirty to do so.

just third is the default trans gear is messed up or not powered, make sure you dont have any fuses blown like "tcc" under the dash or any of the pcm ones

Cleaning the IAC was already suggested, I'd clean the pintle on that and see how it runs.

As for getting that honeycomb thing (air diffuser for the MAF) out of the throttle body, you need snap ring pliers to remove the snap ring, then it should come out fairly easy, I really don't think cleaning that will make much difference though, I used a K&N oiled air filter until it killed my MAF sensor, still that honeycomb thing never got anything on it.