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98 Buick Century won't start and loses all power

Old Apr 26, 2018 | 09:01 PM
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Default 98 Buick Century won't start and loses all power

So my 98 Century won't start. I put the key in and I hear the beeps. I turn it to accessory and I still have power. When I turn the key to start, I hear a click or two and lose all power. Can't use anything electrical in the car. Sometimes after I attempt to start it and turn the key to off there is power, but sometimes there is not. When I checked for a short under the hood I touched the positive terminal of the battery and the horn sounded shortly. Battery voltage is 12.7. Any advice would be appreciated.
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Old Apr 27, 2018 | 05:11 AM
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What does the voltage drop to while attempting a start?
A battery load test will tell you if there is sufficient cranking power, could be weak battery.
How old is the battery?
Is there any corrosion & terminals/ are they tight?
Have you tried a jump-start by chance?
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Old Apr 27, 2018 | 08:07 AM
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I agree.....check voltage across the battery while attempting to crank the vehicle.......must be above 9.6 volts....
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Old Apr 27, 2018 | 09:16 AM
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I have tried jumping the car. When I did the car had no juice. Not even the beeping sound when I put the key in the ignition. When I disconnected the jumper cables I do have juice but the symptoms are the same as I described before. I'm thinking it'* a security issue but the security light turns off when the ignition is in the run position.
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Old Apr 27, 2018 | 10:48 AM
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Remove the neg bat cable first, then the positive.....clean any corrosion on cables, if bolts corroded replace.....install pos first, then neg.......then get a voltmeter and check voltage across battery while cranking like we asked...
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Old Apr 27, 2018 | 01:15 PM
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Originally Posted by Tech II
Remove the neg bat cable first, then the positive.....clean any corrosion on cables, if bolts corroded replace.....install pos first, then neg.......then get a voltmeter and check voltage across battery while cranking like we asked...
I agree with Tech II. With a badly corroded or loose connection on the battery terminals, even the minor action of clipping on a jumper cable could move it enough to lose contact. The other alternative I imagine based on your description is that the engine is hydrolocked. That is much worse and much more involved than diagnosing the battery and its connections.
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Old Apr 28, 2018 | 12:51 PM
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Did a load test last night...read 9.0. It was the battery. Put another charged battery in and it started right up. I feel like an idiot, but thank you for your help regardless.
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Old Apr 28, 2018 | 03:04 PM
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No worries..Glad it now starts with another charged up battery.
I have one of these inexpensive 100 amp load testers, can be found online for around $35.
I remove the battery'* + & - cables then attach the tester & load it for 10 seconds.
With the 100 amp draw, it quickly gives a voltage indication & how strong or weak the battery is.
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Often trickle charging overnight can restore the Cranking amps.
It is also good to check the electrolyte levels if you have removable caps, & add distilled water only if needed.
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Old Apr 28, 2018 | 06:38 PM
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Thank you for the extra info. I am maintenance charging it now at 3 amps. I charged it at 15 amps earlier and it fully charged.
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Old Apr 30, 2018 | 06:41 PM
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Originally Posted by VladeSpado
Did a load test last night...read 9.0. It was the battery. Put another charged battery in and it started right up. I feel like an idiot, but thank you for your help regardless.
Thanks for letting us know!
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