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Old 08-01-2011, 05:22 PM   #41
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i would just go to harbor freight, or northern tool or what ever you have handy and get a tub of grease, dont spend too much thought or money on it as you shouldnt have any more issues if its sealed, and most cars dont have any grease fittings anymore so i wouldnt bother with that either.
The only places I have that I can get a friend to take me is Autozone, or AdvanceAuto, or Walmart, if Walmart may have it I'll look there.
Otherwise I'll have to order from online, I'll make sure to group it with other parts, so I get free shipping on it if I go that route.
I won't worry about adding grease fittings for a while, but I just feel like it would be nice to be able to add a little grease, I don't think it would hurt..
Since money is low I will not do it before anything like replacing O2 sensors, MAF, etc, things that would make it run better would be my main focus once I get it together and running.

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Zerk fittings.
Thank you very much!

I found these below, I'm thinking 1/8" is big enough for rack boots, and hopefully also for the CV Boots.
http://www.shoplet.com/Lincoln-indus...LS4385400/spdv
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Old 08-27-2011, 03:32 AM   #42
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I've not had the money to get the stuff I need to get this back together yet, but I started thinking about the injectors not pulsing (when it was together), and I decided why not give each one a quick 12v pulse of power & listen for the relay inside it to click.
Well, upon doing so I think I found my problem, one of the injectors has a really weak click, so I am guessing the injector possibly has a cracked soldier joint or something, this weak one was clearly a LOT quieter than all other 5 injectors, I did also find something else that was a little odd, one of the other 5 had a really strong sounding click, it was clearly stronger sounding than the 4 that sounded about right for a relay clicking.

I know I cannot be for sure this will cause the car to run once back together, but I'd almost bet my life on a bad relay inside of one of the injectors as what was stopping them from pulsing, if all 6 of them need to pulse, then if one is not pulsing due to its injector relay being bad, couldn't that cause the PCM to shut the injectors down?

I plan on getting 6 re-manufactured injectors after I get the car back together, then I'll clean the 4 that I know are good, and keep them as spares..
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Old 09-04-2011, 12:15 AM   #43
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I finally have ordered a few parts, enough to allow me to get the LIM back on, and to put the belt tensioner back on, as well as put my oil drain plug back in, not that I am filling it back up yet..

I had some advice from a guy that led me to getting my parts cheaper, I found a lot of the stuff at rockauto, and got a few things like carb, and break cleaner, and blue thread locker.


I do have a question I hope I can get an answer to, the Coolant Sensor I got is a STANDARD MOTOR PRODUCTS TX66, it has the coolant sensor sealant on it already, at least that is what I see in the pic, if it already has that on it do I need to put some thread sealant like this on it as well?
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If all goes as planned I should have the LIM back on in 2 weeks, whenever the parts show up...
Then I'll only have another 300.00 to spend and it should be running again.
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Old 09-06-2011, 04:37 PM   #44
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The sealant that'* on the sensor (if it'* new) will be fine.
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Old 09-06-2011, 05:41 PM   #45
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The sealant that'* on the sensor (if it'* new) will be fine.
Thanks, I thought so, but wanted to be sure.

Now the only thing I am unsure about is whether I'm going to totally flush my system of antifreeze, and go with a HOAT based AF safe to use in all systems by Prestone, I read that the Prestone Long Life AF does not have 2-EHA in it.
http://www.dow.com/products/product_...roduct=1120545

The reason I am considering changing to something without this is that it is a plasticizes things like the UIM-TB ports, I'm pretty sure it is what softened up my plastic LIM gasket I had on there to the point it disintegrated in my hands as I removed it, and I am willing to be that the 2-EHA, and I am thinking that it is probably why both ends of my coolant elbow fell to pieces when I easily removed it.

I do not want to start a DexCool debate or anything, but I am concerned with this eating up my new UIM-TB Ports when I get it, as well as the coolant elbow, and whatever other plastic that may be in something that the fluid flows through.
I suppose its better that it eats the plastic rather than the aluminum, but I'd be happy if it stopped the aluminum from corroding, as well as stopped the plastics used from plasticizing.


If I flushed out my system, but somehow did not get all of the DexCool out, would the Prestone LL that says it is compatible with any color AF work without any problems?
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Old 09-06-2011, 05:44 PM   #46
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Fixed my above sentence, I had a typo, and I am still unable to edit my posts, or I'd have corrected it.

"The reason I am considering changing to something without this is that it is a plasticizes things like the UIM-TB ports, I'm pretty sure it is what softened up my plastic LIM gasket I had on there to the point it disintegrated in my hands as I removed it, and I am willing to be that the 2-EHA is probably why both ends of my coolant elbow fell to pieces when I easily removed it."
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Old 09-06-2011, 05:54 PM   #47
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The LIM gaskets break down no mater what coolant you use. That'* why you switch to the aluminum type. It'* simply a poor design. You have a iron head, a aluminum LIM, and a plastic gasket. Each has a different expansion rate. Over time, they break down. The coolant you choose will come down to your own personal choice.
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Old 09-06-2011, 06:06 PM   #48
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The LIM gaskets break down no mater what coolant you use. That'* why you switch to the aluminum type. It'* simply a poor design. You have a iron head, a aluminum LIM, and a plastic gasket. Each has a different expansion rate. Over time, they break down. The coolant you choose will come down to your own personal choice.
I have no real personal choice for antifreeze, if possible I just want to be able to prevent, if not slow down the rate the plastic gets softened, as I do not want to have to take my belt tentioner off later on to replace the coolant elbow again, then again the old one held for 133k, and only fell apart when I gently removed it, the same goes for the plastic of the UIM-TB coolant ports, or whatever you call them, the plastic around them fell apart when I remove the TB Gasket to inspect that area...


Oh yea, I was told by somebody that I may want to consider a light coat of RTV on the LIM gaskets water ports only, would you think this would be good to do?
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Old 09-06-2011, 06:13 PM   #49
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I've never use RTV on the LIM gaskets. They are a floating gasket with a rubber seal. Let them do their job.

As for the UIM coolant passages. I fix those by plugging the passages so no coolant goes up to the UIM and throttle body.
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Old 09-06-2011, 06:28 PM   #50
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I've never use RTV on the LIM gaskets. They are a floating gasket with a rubber seal. Let them do their job.

As for the UIM coolant passages. I fix those by plugging the passages so no coolant goes up to the UIM and throttle body.
Appreciate the response, I'll only use RTV on the corners then.

Why does it flow through the TB anyway, forgive me if that is a stupid question, I know it is probably meant to cool something, I am guessing it is to help cool the fluid...

What would be the benefit of plugging those passages?
Are there any real downsides to doing that?
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