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Old 07-25-2011, 03:17 PM   #11
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Could this be the same O Ring possibly?
It says fuel filter seal, but it looks like the same one, of course I know that means little..

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I attached a pic of the right o ring that came out of the line, it is on the left, and the black o ring that is the wrong one for it on the right.
Just in case it matters, it is the fuel line towards the back of the IM, not the front one.
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Old 07-25-2011, 03:21 PM   #12
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fuel pressure is very critical on these engines, you need at least over 45 and it needs to stay there for a while or your fuel pressure reg is bad. having a leaking hose could certainly cause your issues as well. i havent done that part of the line on a Bonneville but im assuming its similar to my yukon, they had repair kits at the carquest that came with the proper end and you would have to use a compression coupler or what ever you need down the line to complete the repair.
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Old 07-25-2011, 03:26 PM   #13
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Old 07-25-2011, 03:35 PM   #14
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fuel pressure is very critical on these engines, you need at least over 45 and it needs to stay there for a while or your fuel pressure reg is bad. having a leaking hose could certainly cause your issues as well. i havent done that part of the line on a Bonneville but im assuming its similar to my yukon, they had repair kits at the carquest that came with the proper end and you would have to use a compression coupler or what ever you need down the line to complete the repair.
Ahhh ok, so maybe he did say 35, because I know he said it was low 10-12 PSI, which is why he replaced the fuel pump.

I have heard of Dorman repair kits for the nylon line, but I think the kit is a little pricey, the fitting is fairly cheap though, I'm really n a tight budget, and it may take me a few months to get this back together, because I cannot get out to get a second job to earn enough to get it done, which is why I am trying to find those o rings, I read somewhere another had this same issue, and got the o rings from the dealer, and it fixed the problem, maybe I could call another dealership till I find one that has it, and will let me buy them without buying the whole line.

I'll do whatever I need to do so it will not leak once I get it running again, as I do not want an engine fire!
I did not really mean to get partially off topic, I just got my pick set in today, and just took that o ring out.
Funny it only leaks if I tap down on it, at least while I am watching it that is, while the car was running that seemed to be a different story though.

One thing I just remembered, I do not think this matters at all, but the mechanic said he noticed somebody screwed a screw into an area of the fuel sending unit, and told me it would affect my emissions down the line.
He wanted 150.00 to do it, and he had already broke me, so I had to decline.
I did however search and find out that the fuel sender and fuel pump only share a common ground, and nothing more, and it mainly just lets the fuel gauge show the proper amount of fuel.
I do plan to fix it one day, but I really don't think it is a problem, since the fuel gauge works fine, and has since 3 years ago, when that ground crew was put there in the trunk. :o
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Old 07-25-2011, 03:45 PM   #15
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Thank you for the link, going to look that over.
I may have found them though, not sure.
http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/web...ci_sku=9110018

I'll at least measure the current one, and see if it is 5/16 or 3/8.
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Old 07-25-2011, 04:03 PM   #16
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as far as the fuel tank sending unit, any leak even a very small crack or bad seal on the sending unit should cause an evap code, maybe thats what he was referring to
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Old 07-26-2011, 02:11 AM   #17
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as far as the fuel tank sending unit, any leak even a very small crack or bad seal on the sending unit should cause an evap code, maybe thats what he was referring to
So fuel actually flows through the sending unit?
I thought that it was just something with a float that moved, and changed resistance values as the ball moved up and down, and that in turn registered at the fuel gauge to show how much fuel I have.

That may have been what the guy was referring to, he just said that eventually it could cause me to fail an emissions test, but I told him there'* no worry about that at the moment, because I've never had one of those done, I'm pretty sure they are not mandatory to pass inspection where I live in VA.

He was pretty sure that would not be the reason my fuel injectors were not pulsing, so I had him put the fuel pump in and put the tank back, if I hadn't I'd not have had enough money to get it towed back home.
Money is going to be the main factor in me actually getting this fixed, when I spent the more than 500.00 I had for repairs on repairs that did not fix the car, I kind of ran into a wall, I'm lucky if I can spend 100.00 a month on parts I need without a way to get out and get a job, so a simple UIM/LIM repair may take me another 2 months at least.
I'll be by the time I get it back together, lol


Just went back over my alldata manual info, and maybe I was wrong, I see the fuel sending unit has a fuel pulse dampener, now I know that should be electrical, but maybe I was wrong.

Here is a diagram, and the info from my alldata repair manual.

-------------------------------

The fuel sender assembly is attached to the top of the fuel tank, and extends from the top of the fuel tank to the reservoir.

The fuel sender assembly consists of the following major components: a fuel sender, a fuel pump, a fuel pump strainer, a fuel pulse dampener, and a roll-over valve.

The fuel sender consists of the float, the wire float arm, rheostat and the roll-over valve. The fuel level is sensed by the position of the float and float arm, which perate the 90 ohm rheostat. As the float position changes, the amount of current passing through the rheostat varies, thus changing the gauge reading on the instrument panel.

The roll-over valve is pressed into the EVAP pipe of the fuel sender and is not serviced separately. The roll-over valve prevents fuel from entering the engine compartment if the vehicle rolls over by shutting "Off" the VAP pipe to the evaporative emission canister.

LEGEND

1. Fuel Sender Assembly
2. Fuel Level Sensor Assembly
3. Filter
4. Fuel Pump
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Old 07-26-2011, 02:47 AM   #18
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I think I may look into replacing that fuel sending unit sooner than later if possible, of course first I need to get my Intake Manifold back together.
I just hope that it can be removed without dropping the tank again, I'm pretty sure I have an access cover in the trunk near where it is, but I am not sure it can be removed that way, my AllData manual says I have to drop the tank.
Where I live I only have gravel, so I'm not too quick to jack it up, & put it on jack stands so I can get under there and drop the tank, I do have a nice 2 & 1/2 ton floor jack, so if I could get it up and safe enough to get under it, then I should be able to use that jack to somehow help me drop the tank, it is already pretty low on gas, but not low fuel light low, so it should not have to be drained, because the mechanic drained it previously, or maybe he didn't, it was only 1/4 tank when he got it, and the same when I got it back, so he may have not drained it all all.

If I had not been in a tough spot I really would have taken the time to go meet the mechanic I sent my car to, and talk to him face to face a little, but I had to blindly choose one nearby when it died and send it there in hopes they knew enough about a GM vehicle to get it fixed, he said he had been a mechanic for 10 years...
I'm sure he came out happy, I ended up trading him a nice Phoenix Gold 1200x1 mono block amp that I had, when new the AMP cost me 700.00, I also traded him my 10 farad capacitor that I paid 375.00 for when it was new for some money off of the bill, I did not really get what they were worth IMO, but I did what I had to do.
Now if I could only sell the two TS-W5000SPL Pioneer Subs I have, that may let me get the car back together again, and maybe running.
Check them out.
http://www.pioneerelectronics.com/PU...rs/TS-W5000SPL

Doh, sorry for getting off topic & rambling, maybe I should post info on those subs here somewhere, there is a section for buying, selling, and trading stuff I see.
I'm loving this place already!
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Old 07-26-2011, 09:56 AM   #19
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in order to see if the evap system has a leak it commands the vent valve closed and uses the engine vacuum to draw a vacuum on the whole system, canister, lines, the tank, fuel filler lines, gas cap, etc.. so if the sending unit or anything else in the tank has an air leak it sees that as a evap leak and will set one of the p044X codes. all you need to do is put a dab of silicone on it or whatever just make sure it wont leak air.

pretty sure you dont have an access panel though my 98 bonnie doesnt
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Old 07-26-2011, 10:12 AM   #20
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in order to see if the evap system has a leak it commands the vent valve closed and uses the engine vacuum to draw a vacuum on the whole system, canister, lines, the tank, fuel filler lines, gas cap, etc.. so if the sending unit or anything else in the tank has an air leak it sees that as a evap leak and will set one of the p044X codes. all you need to do is put a dab of silicone on it or whatever just make sure it wont leak air.

pretty sure you dont have an access panel though my 98 bonnie doesnt
Ahh ok, so as long as I have no codes set it should be ok, good to know.
I could back the screw out, put a little silicone on the tip and put it back in where it is, there is a chance it is barely even piercing it, so I hope.

You are probably right, had I had that access the mechanic may not have dropped the tank, then again I did have a giant speaker box in there at the time. :o


I have a question about grey/black RTV, do you know if either will work on the 4 corners when I put my LIM Gasket on?
I thought about getting some black RTV instead of the grey, if it would work better.
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If that won't work I'll just get this
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I am pretty sure it would work fine, I just want to use the best RTV so it never leaks.

And one other question, sorry for so may different questions, I just plan to order a few of the things I need soon, so I want to be sure I have all I need to at least get the LIM back on.
Can you spray some carb cleaner on a rag and wipe off where all LIM Gasket seals, it is already totally clean, I just want to make sure no oily residue is left on them, I know break cleaner will work, but if I can help it I do not want to have to buy a can just to wipe the surface where the gasket goes unless I have to, as money is tight.
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