Hi!

Sorry for posting another thread, I didn't remember i had a made a post in this forum and forgot about the first thread i opened.

Unfortunately in Europe it is nearly impossible to get a second scantool for this car. No shop wants to touch this car either, they have never heard of OBD 1.5...

I use Tuner pro rt and a homemade aldl cable for the 16 pin data link connector.

Car runs fine, but the trouble codes are allways on, also a random traction control light

With the other ECU i have, there are no codes anymore, but the tranny shifts 4th very hard, and the ignition cuts off intermittently. stalling the engine if im stationary, and randomly throws a change oil soon light?.

I am chasing ghosts.

At this point i have no idea how to proceed. i dont know how i can justify a permanent Check engine light during inspection and they will probably not give me the inspection sticker.

If you know exactly the scan tool i need + the 16 pin adapter for this rare ECU type i would really appreciate it, but something tells me no one in Europe has one of them and something tells me they aren't even readily available in the US either...

I am looking for a electronics expert in Spain that has the guts to take a look on one of my ECU and find out if they see something out of the ordinary. I even have a spare ECU for parts...

List of Strange things going on with this car:

• DASH DISPLAYS A LOWER TEMPERATURE THAN THE ONE OBTAINED WITH THE SCAN TOOL
• DASH OIL PRESSURE NEEDLE WORKS BUT IS OVER THE NOMINAL LINE
• VOLT METER NEEDLE DANCES LIKE CRAZY WHEN I TURN ON THE HAZARDS
• COOLANT RESERVOIR SLOWLY LOOSES COOLANT. NO VISIBLE LEAKS OR SMOKE
• ALTERNATOR. THE CAR CAME WITH IS THE WRONG KIND OF GENERATOR. IT SHOULD BE KG9 140 AMPS. IT CAME WITH THE 105A KIND WITH METAL BLADES, BUT VIN DECODER SAYS ITS 140AMP
• BATTERY TERMINALS. THE CAR CAME WITH A AMERICAN HEAVY DUTY BATTERY WITH 3/8 SCREW TERMINALS. HAD TO BUY A EUROPEAN REGULAR DUTY BATTERY AND IMPROVISE A WAY TO CONNECT THE TERMINAL POSTS to accept a m10 screw.
• ENGINE SWEATS , HAS A THIN FILM OF OIL, BUT DOESN'T DRIP ANY FLUIDS

Best regards from Spain.

Sounds like you may have an electrical issue. Have you cleaned the body, frame and engine grounds?

Hi!

I have cleaned and re tightened all the grounds I Could observe sanding Infront of the engine bay, there are grounds behind the battery and under the ICM.

There could be more grounds I'm unaware of. I'll check the diagram and see if I missed something...

I'll replace the alternator generator soon, turns out mine is a 105Amp sheet metal blades generator .and the car originally was sold with a 140amp KG9 generator. With the round cast iron ventilation blades.

I'll check the grounds and report back in some time.

Did you make sure the ICM had a clean surface? The bolts that hold it fast are where it gets it'* ground. They need to be clean and tight.
There are eight grounds.

https://charm.li/Buick/1995/Park%20A...0Distribution/

Hi!

I disassembled the ICM mounting bracket and used a file to give it an even and flat surface to rest on. Then I sanded the surface down to give it a even surface finish.

I am thinking of designing and building a homemade ICM mounting bracket with integrated Cooling fins and a fan. But that'* a project for another day.

All the grounds have been taken care of. I will take a look at the diagram. But at this point all I can suspect is a bad ECU. All ignition related parts have already been replaced.

When I have time I will perform the tests from the 94 service manual to figure out if there is a problem with the sensors that trigger the CEL. Or if the problem is a bad PCM.

Cheers

Sometimes the plug for the ICM can have the mounting bolt rub through the insulation on the wires right next to it. I've found that a couple of times, including on my 1997 LeSabre. Might want to look for that.

Merged duplicate thread into this thread. Post #8, Post #9, and Post #11 are from the duplicate thread, and the rest were already here.

you need thermal paste on the bracket without aluminum oxide(stop filing it away lol, just wire wheel) and the ICM

Also, if your issues persist, you should check out the harness. Especially where it plugs into the harness on the top by the fuel injectors, factory units of 3800 were known to leak coolant onto the engines below (they were stacked after being tested) and corrosion. its a long time since then but if it started slow, you never know

Hi!

Thanks for the heads up. I will consider doing this if my driveability issues persist. I am awaiting new remanufactured ECU'* to discard for once and all if it was just the computer acting up on me.

As far as I am concerned 94 95 ECUs were pretty finicky and like to act up every 5 years if not properly maintained and kept away from moisture.

I decided to file the bracket down because i used my calipers to test for flatness, These cast iron brackets are subject to heat and cold cycles and usually deform with time. Now the ICM has a flat and even surface to rest on. This weekend I will uncover the rest of the Grounds, sand them down and tighten them down nice and snug.

I am going to take your recommendation seriously and check the wiring harness that runs down to the Camshaft sensor , the ICM and Crankshaft sensor, If I find something particularly suspicious I will fix it and report back.

The car has had some wires stripped of it'* insulation to test for driveability issues in the past. And the car already came with a remanufactured ECU.

Best wishes from Spain.

Here is a video so you can see what I am experiencing . Did discover a leaking heater core, so it might make the general area of the ECU wet