2001 Buick Regal LS supercharger
Thank you very much for the suggestions. I’ll definitely consider those fuel injection clamps lol. As for the alternator it’* been holding up pretty well and it does have three ears and I couldn’t install that missing mounting bolt because of the supercharger but it’* pretty stable with just two. I think that third one was somewhat overkill. I agree that the Air filter doesn’t do what I want it to but it saves a lot of room and it’* very easy to remove and reinstall. I have the worst luck with those tension clamps so that’* why I use regular hose clamps and they haven’t failed me yet but I’ll keep that in mind.
The supercharger boost valve does work and move freely but I’m thinking that I’ll need to find a way to manually let boost go by by using a toggle switch or something for the boost solenoid actuator since I have the L36 pcm.
but the boost valve is spring loaded to make sure that the butterfly plate in the supercharger is always closed. So do you think I should only have vacuum to the top side of the boost valve so that I can have the solenoid in line to either send vacuum to open the butterfly valve or to prevent vacuum from opening and letting boost bypass?
I hope I’m making sense.
The supercharger boost valve does work and move freely but I’m thinking that I’ll need to find a way to manually let boost go by by using a toggle switch or something for the boost solenoid actuator since I have the L36 pcm.
but the boost valve is spring loaded to make sure that the butterfly plate in the supercharger is always closed. So do you think I should only have vacuum to the top side of the boost valve so that I can have the solenoid in line to either send vacuum to open the butterfly valve or to prevent vacuum from opening and letting boost bypass?
I hope I’m making sense.
I Do not think you should hook up a toggle , but you should hook up a l67 PCM and controls
Your playing with fire especially if your car has traction control
I am also surprised it runs fine... considering everything
Anyway, the hose clamp thing, constant tension clamps are fine if you have the tool for them. They are superior and they wont bite into the hose, then lose clamping force that way. thats part of why its dangerous when dealing with 50 some psi fuel pressure coming on those lines.. make sure its hose and clamps are rated for the task so you dont lose your baby
I Dont recall how that tensioner assembly looks where the alternator mounts.... you MAY be okay... but realize the third mounting eye was to provide deflection support, if the 2 other ears are taxed its possible to overburden them but they may be robust. the brace you cant use since you have a supercharger in way may also help vibrations or noise but you may be okay...
but on that subject, if you ever need a new alt, I then advise stepping down to a normal CS130D or AD230 unless you go to a different tensioner/bracket which is a lot of work, but it would allow you to use the more updated secure mountings
Heres what I mean
heres just an idea of what it would look like
Right after I supercharged my car I did a transmission fluid and filter change and I replaced the accumulator seals and pins on the bottom of the transmission. It does shift slightly harder than before but I know that’* because of the extra boost. This does have the 4T60-E transmission just to confirm.
Especially early 96 when Series II L67 is new kid on the block, changes were coming before you know it that just add complexity etc etc. the OP would be wiser to buy a regal with a supercharger, they were trimmed well Im pretty sure compared to the normal one.
In my opinion it would just be a lot easier to swap a L67 in than do the top swap stuff unless someone had a good L36 and a parts or blown l67 they could merrily transfer components and wiring and etc.
Especially early 96 when Series II L67 is new kid on the block, changes were coming before you know it that just add complexity etc etc. the OP would be wiser to buy a regal with a supercharger, they were trimmed well Im pretty sure compared to the normal one.
Especially early 96 when Series II L67 is new kid on the block, changes were coming before you know it that just add complexity etc etc. the OP would be wiser to buy a regal with a supercharger, they were trimmed well Im pretty sure compared to the normal one.
Find 4T65-HD and matching L67 PCM, then you can use HPTuners to fine tune the engine side of the software. This is much easier/safer in the long run than trying to tune a L36T/* on a light duty trans.
Its been discussed with a stock L36 tune, using stock L67 injectors, supercharger and flat top pistons, these engines are cranking out a lot of HP, more than a stock L67. Some have even cautioned bottom end damage because the engine is making more HP than it can handle. This is why the L36T/* has to be scanned, tuned, scanned, tuned. Then beef up rotating parts.
Its been discussed with a stock L36 tune, using stock L67 injectors, supercharger and flat top pistons, these engines are cranking out a lot of HP, more than a stock L67. Some have even cautioned bottom end damage because the engine is making more HP than it can handle. This is why the L36T/* has to be scanned, tuned, scanned, tuned. Then beef up rotating parts.
Thank you for all the great information. Im thinking I’ll drive my current transmission into the ground before I upgrade but I’ll definitely apply your advice in the future because it sounds like a great idea.
The modulator is the vacuum controlled gizmo on the front of the transmissio if standing in front of the radiator looking down in the engine bay. it should have a connection to manifold vacuum.
The reason I say replace is fun things happen if the diaphram breaks
now this is beside the quadrajet on a 1977 small block buick (V8, its what the V6 and 3.8 and 3800s come from lineage wise
) and the transmission is a RWD th350, but the modulator is the same for TH350, TH400, 440-T4(your transmission before it was electronic, 1990 was last year. it was also called 4t60. ) 4t60e, which you have, 1991-1998 or 1999 in some apps I think. Uses a modulator still, despite being electronic controlled (no TV cable on a 4t60e) it controls line pressure (modu)



