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2001 Buick Regal LS supercharger

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Old Jun 13, 2022 | 08:55 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by carfixer007
The SC engine has the NA software?
From reading what hes done, he has a 96 base park avenue with a "kit" or just replaced the components to supercharge his L36 (possibly donor vehicle) and I took his mentioning wanting a way to manually bypass boost as him having no PCM controls to solenoid, but I guess its possible he has that and just was talking about bypass in general, which Im pretty sure if functioning stock it would be at idle.

To go from the stock PCM to L67 would definitely require some pinout changes as the boost bypass doesnt exist on a L36(obviously) and I am not sure about the knock sensor add on module if that has to be different or not... and then I assume map sensor would require a different PCM or just calibration, not sure there,

So, good question
Im not sure how a 96 works with a 4t60e but I believe a L67 tune wouldnt be compatible with a stock final drive of a L36. Although Maybe aftermarket has solutions there, I just recall reading one day that the HD upgrade locks you into a final drive selection that isnt ideal, but I dont have that transmission so Its to the fate of my memory LOL
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Old Jun 13, 2022 | 09:36 PM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by OldsManiac1990
your boost bypass actuator/valve thingy is still on the supercharger and you have it hooked to vacuum. under proper operating conditions, it should be bypassing at idle IIRC. Verify the rod on that actuator is able to move smoothly, you can actuate it when the car is off. there is also a vacuum test with a handheld pump iirc that can determine if its okay. the boost bypass circuit (which a 96 l67 pcm would be able to control Im pretty sure) will force the actuator to bypass when in reverse, traction situations, overboost situations.. etc..
Also I suggest doing some lugs on your battery negative and/or new cables , been there done that it never ends well like that
ALso I WOULD NOT SUGGEST YOU KEEP YOUR FUEL INJECTION LINES CLAMPED WITH WORM CLAMPS. THAT IS A huge SAFETY ISSUE. You can repair the original design with vinyl(meh) or if you insist on the hose, use FUEL INJECTION clamps(sold at auto stores) and fuel injection hose(specifically for FI) and look up the proper hygeine for that. I dont want to see your park avenue end up a crispy corpse

Also for your personal liking, you should upgrade your alternator when possible to an AD series alternator (or a CS130D, same thing but not as reliable long term) which requires a conversion plug from the CS130 you have there.
This tells me your harness was a pre 94 car as well? 94-96(96-98 as well) should have a CS130D and a oval connector on the alternator
Also it appears to be missing a mounting bolt, I hope that alternator has a third connection/mounting ear.

Also I dont think the air filter is doing as much as you think it does, albeit its prob better than the stock 90s airbox
Getting a constant tension clamp or 2 for your rad hoses (which seem nice/newer) will also be wise so you dont have any leaks over time
Thank you very much for the suggestions. I’ll definitely consider those fuel injection clamps lol. As for the alternator it’* been holding up pretty well and it does have three ears and I couldn’t install that missing mounting bolt because of the supercharger but it’* pretty stable with just two. I think that third one was somewhat overkill. I agree that the Air filter doesn’t do what I want it to but it saves a lot of room and it’* very easy to remove and reinstall. I have the worst luck with those tension clamps so that’* why I use regular hose clamps and they haven’t failed me yet but I’ll keep that in mind.
The supercharger boost valve does work and move freely but I’m thinking that I’ll need to find a way to manually let boost go by by using a toggle switch or something for the boost solenoid actuator since I have the L36 pcm.
but the boost valve is spring loaded to make sure that the butterfly plate in the supercharger is always closed. So do you think I should only have vacuum to the top side of the boost valve so that I can have the solenoid in line to either send vacuum to open the butterfly valve or to prevent vacuum from opening and letting boost bypass?
I hope I’m making sense.
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Old Jun 13, 2022 | 09:40 PM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by OldsManiac1990
lastly, On your transmission, did you service it properly before the swap so that it was in good health?? (if you had it for a long time) I just ask because Id be worried about blowing up the differential on it because your pushing more boost than a stock 96 ultra and you dont have the 4t60e-HD upgrades to "handle" it lol.
Right after I supercharged my car I did a transmission fluid and filter change and I replaced the accumulator seals and pins on the bottom of the transmission. It does shift slightly harder than before but I know that’* because of the extra boost. This does have the 4T60-E transmission just to confirm.
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Old Jun 13, 2022 | 09:48 PM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by OldsManiac1990
From reading what hes done, he has a 96 base park avenue with a "kit" or just replaced the components to supercharge his L36 (possibly donor vehicle) and I took his mentioning wanting a way to manually bypass boost as him having no PCM controls to solenoid, but I guess its possible he has that and just was talking about bypass in general, which Im pretty sure if functioning stock it would be at idle.

To go from the stock PCM to L67 would definitely require some pinout changes as the boost bypass doesnt exist on a L36(obviously) and I am not sure about the knock sensor add on module if that has to be different or not... and then I assume map sensor would require a different PCM or just calibration, not sure there,

So, good question
Im not sure how a 96 works with a 4t60e but I believe a L67 tune wouldnt be compatible with a stock final drive of a L36. Although Maybe aftermarket has solutions there, I just recall reading one day that the HD upgrade locks you into a final drive selection that isnt ideal, but I dont have that transmission so Its to the fate of my memory LOL
Regarding the MAP sensor, the stock engine (NA) has a one bar MAP Sendir while the supercharged engine requires a two bar MAP sensor as there is different pressures in the lower intake manifold.
Unfortunately there are no kits in stock to go from the stock L36 to the L67 so I had to buy every part individually from the cylinder heads to the supercharger as well as the fuel rail and entire belt drive.
ZZP Performance offers a kit but was never in stock.
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Old Jun 13, 2022 | 10:31 PM
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You must chip this or your supercharger is wasted.
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Old Jun 13, 2022 | 10:35 PM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by carfixer007
You must chip this or your supercharger is wasted.
Do you mean fix the boost bypass?
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Old Jun 13, 2022 | 10:53 PM
  #27  
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You have to program it to deliver the correct amount of fuel when boost is present. If you don't program this you may as well take that SC off and sell it.
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Old Jun 14, 2022 | 09:10 AM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by carfixer007
You have to program it to deliver the correct amount of fuel when boost is present. If you don't program this you may as well take that SC off and sell it.
Shouldn’t it be achieving the right amount of fuel based off the amount of air coming in? There aren’t any codes and my fuel mileage is barely better than it was stock. You think it’* running to lean without it being programmed?
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Old Jun 14, 2022 | 09:15 AM
  #29  
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All L36 top swaps need to be programmed, TUNED, not canned tuned. Scanned, then tuned.

And why are we hijacking someone else'* post?

Last edited by Mike; Jun 14, 2022 at 09:16 AM.
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Old Jun 14, 2022 | 09:26 AM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by Mike
All L36 top swaps need to be programmed, TUNED, not canned tuned. Scanned, then tuned.

And why are we hijacking someone else'* post?
Alright thanks.
Originally the author wanted information on supercharging his car so now he has plenty of information lol
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