I have Mitchell for 1999 and it shows vacuum for the vents but not for the blend door. Make sure you pull the fuse for the HVAC module and do the reset and see if we get lucky.

In the rear fuse box there is 33, labeled HVAC & 37, labeled HVAC battery. Which one do I pull?

Go ahead and pull them both for a minute or two.

After I sent that, I thought that too but could not figure a way to edit my post. Will update in the morning. On a side note, I really like this car.

Pat

No change after the reset procedure. I could hear the various actuators moving under the dash. Like before, I have all functions except air direction control. Think it'* time to pull the actuator.

That makes sense. At least you know the relearn didn't help. Good troubleshooting step.

It was worth a shot and is something that can fix door problems. I hope the actuator is the problem and not the controller. Let us know.

As I said before, all the actuators are electrical....

Air flow only comes out of the vents? Even if you command defrost? If this is the case, then it'* either a bad control head or mode actuator....

GM uses the Tech II scan tool to diagnose this system, but who has one? And nobody usually has a scan tool that reads "B" codes....a B0249 or B0252 is probably set.....

There are 5 wires to the mode actuator:
Term 5 is Brown, that'* BAT.....
Term 6 is Yellow, that'* your control....you are looking for varying voltage with DVM when you change modes(bi, vent, heater, etc.)....
Term 7 is Yellow, that'* your ground...
Term 9 is Yellow/blk tracer, that is your position data....
Term 10 is Grey, that is a 5 volts ref signal for the position sensor....
Basically test 7 for ground, 5 for BAT voltage, and 6 for varying voltage......if ok, then you remove the actuator.....manually move the mode valve....if it isn't bound and moves freely, replace the actuator....

I will not get another chance to play with it until Sunday, my next day off. I have a DVM so it should not be a problem to check voltages. Thanks. Will update.

Well I got a chance to test the voltage at the wire harness at the actuator. All is as Tech II says. Seems the control unit is functioning properly. The problem is I just am not seeing how to remove the actuator. It is between some dash structure & I can barely get my fingers in let alone my hand. I removed all the lower panels with no success. Hell, I almost wish it was the control head. Not sure what to do next.

Pat