1999 Buick Regal GS VATS problem
#1
1999 Buick Regal GS VATS problem
I recently bought a 99 Regal GS off of craigslist. It has been perfect for the month or so that I have owned it but about a week ago it wont start anymore because of the VATS. I ordered some resistors online and I was going to install it today so I could bypass it.
I began to look for the orange wire and I couldn't find it. It'* almost like its not there. I did find a thicker looking orange wire but it didn't feel rubbery or feel like it was covered up like its supposed to. I also started looking for 2 white wires. That didn't help.
I checked to see if it had already been bypassed before this had happened by putting in the key that doesn't have the resistor pellet and it wouldn't start so I know that the system is still working.
Now I'm out of a car and I need help. Is there any other place that I could tap into the wire at?
I began to look for the orange wire and I couldn't find it. It'* almost like its not there. I did find a thicker looking orange wire but it didn't feel rubbery or feel like it was covered up like its supposed to. I also started looking for 2 white wires. That didn't help.
I checked to see if it had already been bypassed before this had happened by putting in the key that doesn't have the resistor pellet and it wouldn't start so I know that the system is still working.
Now I'm out of a car and I need help. Is there any other place that I could tap into the wire at?
#2
Senior Member
I checked to see if it had already been bypassed before this had happened by putting in the key that doesn't have the resistor pellet
Not sure what you mean........does your ignition key have a resistor pellet or not? I know the Passkey I and II systems came with a blank key for cutting a new key if needed.....
If your ignition key doesn't have a resistor pellet, but has PK3 stamped on the key shaft(or has a circle symbol in the same spot), then you have PK3 and not PK I or II(these systems have the two white wires in the orange sheathe that runs down the steering column, PK3 doesn't and can't be bypassed with resistors).......
Are you saying the car does not crank over, or it cranks over and doesn't start?
Also, put the original ignition key in the lock cylinder and turn to on(not crank position).....Look at the SECURITY light......it should come on for 3-5 seconds and then go out.....does it come on and go out, or does it come on and stay on?
If it goes out and the car does not crank over with the key in the start position, you have a starter or starter circuit problem.......
If the light stays on, cranks over, and doesn't fire, you have a PassKey problem.......have you checked for codes, like a possible P1629?
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Soft Ride (01-28-2018)
#3
Not sure what you mean........does your ignition key have a resistor pellet or not? I know the Passkey I and II systems came with a blank key for cutting a new key if needed.....
If your ignition key doesn't have a resistor pellet, but has PK3 stamped on the key shaft(or has a circle symbol in the same spot), then you have PK3 and not PK I or II(these systems have the two white wires in the orange sheathe that runs down the steering column, PK3 doesn't and can't be bypassed with resistors).......
Are you saying the car does not crank over, or it cranks over and doesn't start?
Also, put the original ignition key in the lock cylinder and turn to on(not crank position).....Look at the SECURITY light......it should come on for 3-5 seconds and then go out.....does it come on and go out, or does it come on and stay on?
If it goes out and the car does not crank over with the key in the start position, you have a starter or starter circuit problem.......
If the light stays on, cranks over, and doesn't fire, you have a PassKey problem.......have you checked for codes, like a possible P1629?
If your ignition key doesn't have a resistor pellet, but has PK3 stamped on the key shaft(or has a circle symbol in the same spot), then you have PK3 and not PK I or II(these systems have the two white wires in the orange sheathe that runs down the steering column, PK3 doesn't and can't be bypassed with resistors).......
Are you saying the car does not crank over, or it cranks over and doesn't start?
Also, put the original ignition key in the lock cylinder and turn to on(not crank position).....Look at the SECURITY light......it should come on for 3-5 seconds and then go out.....does it come on and go out, or does it come on and stay on?
If it goes out and the car does not crank over with the key in the start position, you have a starter or starter circuit problem.......
If the light stays on, cranks over, and doesn't fire, you have a PassKey problem.......have you checked for codes, like a possible P1629?
The security light comes on and stays on with no crank.
I cannot find the orange sheath but I looked at a picture of a new key barrel and I noticed that there was a wire that comes out near the key hole that has two white wires that get covered in the orange sheath. I'm thinking about adding the resistor to this wire on my car (which doesn't have the orange sheath) and seeing what happens. If it doesn't work I guess I'll solder them back like they used to be. :/
#4
Senior Member
You can find the circuit for the key....it is located in the large bulk connector above and to the right of the ebrake....the harnesses from the steering column go into it....drop hush panel on Driver'* side...on the top and bottom of the bulk connector, there are two separate harness connectors(they slide into the bulk connector)......one is grey the other is black......there are two white wires that occupy the last two slots in one of these connectors......these are the wires you want....
With key out of the ignition, take a 7mm socket and loosen the 7mm screw in the center of the bulk connector.......when it is loose, you can separate the bulk connector by pulling outward......take an ohm meter and read the resistance of the key(place leads on both sides of the key}.......insert key in lock cylinder, do not turn.......now take ohm meter, and attach it to the connectors of the two white wires in the harness of bulk connector....the resistance you read should match resistance of key....if it reads OL or infinite, one of the wires is open......
With key out of the ignition, take a 7mm socket and loosen the 7mm screw in the center of the bulk connector.......when it is loose, you can separate the bulk connector by pulling outward......take an ohm meter and read the resistance of the key(place leads on both sides of the key}.......insert key in lock cylinder, do not turn.......now take ohm meter, and attach it to the connectors of the two white wires in the harness of bulk connector....the resistance you read should match resistance of key....if it reads OL or infinite, one of the wires is open......
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