I have a 2000 Buick Lesabre. Very recently had MAF replaced at dealer for symptoms including slight jerking while driving, unburned fuel odor, and MIL (MAF related, not sure which specifically). Seemed ok for a while, though the idle seemed slightly rough. All of the sudden the car started to sputter and stall intermittently, throwing P0102 code. Code comes back after reset, but isnt always immediate. Most times i can force a stall by standing on gas, but not always. Babying the throttle will generally keep it running when it acts up, then once it clears can feel a marked increase in response and power. Replaced fuel filter, fuel pump, fixed notorious fuel leak at connector on rear fuel rail, even replaced a dying battery. With the new battery (after PCM being without power for an hour), seemed to run good for a short period of time. Checked signal cable from MAF and was reading 2.5kHz at idle and increased properly up to 3500 RPM. Started acting up again on 2nd test run. Now signal wire reads 133-136 Hz steady with a few spurts of 20-40 (changing) or so Hz. I have verified ground and 12V. V @ signal wire is 2.6. Tried to recreate conditions to get the 2k+ Hz from signal wire with no success. Can this still be a vacuum (i.e. intake manifold) leak, injector and/or fuel issues, etc or is this indicative of a failed MAF. Im assuming the MAF was reman due to some minor wear on the housing. Not sure the dealership would be honest with me if I were to ask. Is it worth it to just go to the junkyard and pick up a cheap one to try?

If you have a scan tool, observe the O2 sensor when it acts up......If it is staying rich or lean, disconnect the MAF, and then see if you get normal O2 change and if it runs better....if it does, the reman Maf is bad(won't be the first one)......

Forgot to mention, check for tight male connections in the harness and possible break in wire in harness....

I've had good luck with junkyard MAF purchased on Ebay. Hitachi is the OEM for these. If you want a new MAF check Amazon for a HITACHI...about 75 bucks.

I dont have a scan tool that gives live data, but when the MAF was replaced last moth they also replaced the wiring harness. I just tested the resistance of the injectors and verified that they are "ticking" properly (though, I do have a fairly pronounced "tick" coming from the back part of the engine that increases with RPM and is loud enough that I can hear the echo with windows rolled down. This is somewhat new, only really noticed it after first MAF was replaced.). Can't find any worn or obvious sources of a vacuum leak. Tried spraying carb cleaner all around the engine and at vacuum connections, including around the intake manifold seams. Couldn't get any kind of reaction from the spray. Unplugged MAF and ran it for a few miles with no hiccups, will try again later to see if things change. Checked the MAF signal again today and still having the problem of the readings staying steady at around 133 Hz and sometimes 10-30 Hz actively changing. Saw major spikes moments before and during engine stalling. I'd take the car back to the dealer and have them replace the MAF they installed if I were almost certain of a bad sensor. I don't trust that they would be honest about whats wrong without some proof to back it up. After all, they charged me almost $400 for what could very well be a reman MAF (not including bloated hours considering how easy it is to replace on that engine).

I'd pull one from a junkyard for a test. The junkyard unit might be old or dirty or whatever, but it will be unlikely to cause the exact same symptoms as the current unit. Install it and see if your issue goes away.

If it does go away, reinstall the shop'* unit. Did the problem come back? If yes, go back to the shop and point and cry. If no, I'd guess there is a problem with wiring.

If the junkyard unit doesn't remove your bad behavior then good odds the issue is elsewhere.