Only owned my Bonny a couple weeks. Just had that happen tonight, as I was driving home from work. So, I thought I better check this forum to see if anyone had posted about it - and lo and behold.....

I was waiting awhile to pass on the highway and when it FINALLY opened up, I juiced it. Right as the engine revved up pretty good, All the lights came on. The Lo Trac light came on, the Anti-Lock brake light came on, the DIC said SSS, and the HUD said SSS. No loss in power, or weird noises, or vibrations, or anything and I was only 5 minutes from home, so I kept driving with the radio off and watchign all guages. No problems of any kind except, that a bunch of warning lights were lit. When I got home, I parked in the driveway and turned it off. I let it sit a minute, then restarted and no lights were on. Let it run for 5 minutes or so and no probs. Makes me nervous, but hopefully it won't happen again.

Glad to hear that it is probably not too serious of an issue, but I will keep my eye on it.

This is a very old thread so the Moderators may prefer moving this to a more recent one... Regardless, this problem can be caused by a number of different things. The steering wheel position sensor is certainly one, but also a bad wheel speed sensor and connector corrosion are others. I helped a friend diagnose his (had been doing this for three years) and in his case it turned out to be bad rear wheel speed sensor harness. Corrosion existed at both wheel hubs but also in the connector where the wheel speed sensor harness plugs into the main body harness under the left rear of the vehicle. The fix was to replace the wheel speed sensor harness and to splice back into the main body harness because the wiring was black and fragile with corrosion about 2 feet into the body wiring.

Having said all this, the same message appeared once on my car (I've had it two and a half years now) and this was well over a year ago now. I would suggest you simply monitor it at this point. You may never see it again (or at least anytime soon).

It could be as simple as when you got on it and spun one tire just a little. When you do this at a low speed you just get the T/C light, when its done at a higher speed, all hell breaks loose. If I activate my nitrous by stepping down hard on the throttle in 3rd gear, I get the same behavior. Usually the loose/corroded WSS connection will result in a flickering, or intermittent fault. They are prone to it because of their location behind the tire. Best to unconnect and finger dab some dielectric grease or vaseline in each whenever you have the wheel off.

As Venom says, it'* a good idea to apply a little dielectric grease to help keep the moisture out. The rubber on these are designed to be "self lubricating" and in theory shouldn't require this... however we've seen many instances to the contrary. Personally, I tend to stay away from the vaseline because I'm not sure how it may degrade the rubber. Dielectric grease is made for this and it'* fairly inexpensive. This is a personal choice however.

I dunno, in the last 10,000 miles I've pretty much tore apart my whole car to replace everything that has gone awry on it. I love the car, but I HATE this car too!

I almost dumped it for an STS-V a few weeks back because I'm simply tired of working and doing maintanance on it EVERY flipping weekend. Now a damn wheel bearing is going south!

As far as DTC, C1288, one of the following conditions must be present for it to trigger;
- Both phase A and phase B are greater than 4.9 volts for 1.6 seconds
or
- Both phase A and phase B are less than 0.2 volts for 1.6 seconds
or
- The difference in the changes in phase A and phase B has been greater than 35.2* for 9.76 milliseconds.

Phase A and Phase B are steering sensor inputs that measure the phase angle between phase A (signal 1) and phase B (signal 2).

This code is what will set the "service stability system" message. It will also allow your ABS/traction control to remain functional, so no loss of either of these.

Replacing the steering wheel position sensor, is actually one of the last steps in troubleshooting the system and requires airbag disabling, removing the wiper/washer bracket, and the tilt wheel spring. You then need to remove two pivot pins in the column support assembly (GM has a tool for this, but I've used a small punch). You should be able to see the SWPS then. Before that, requires a lot of measuring of reference signals and voltage'* throughout the SWPS circuit.