System ideas (fiberglass all the way) - Page 2 - GM Forum - Buick, Cadillac, Chev, Olds, GMC & Pontiac chat


Audio (and aftermarket electronics) This is your place for alarms, remote starters, to brag about your system, exaggerate your db levels, or simply ask questions for stock or aftermarket audio. No Flames! (except from roasted amps)

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Old 02-25-2008, 09:09 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by slick94prix
Sounds like your amp plans are similar to what I did (sorry for the crappy photos, but I do have some better ones at work, I even kept the rear passthrough fully functional by creating a tunnel):
i do like that with the pass through.

it all looks good. hopfully mine will come out as good

i jsut need to find a place to get the fiberglass mat/cloth from around me
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Old 02-26-2008, 06:42 PM   #12
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Why is there a fuse in the trunk? Is there one under the hood as well?
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Old 02-26-2008, 06:48 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by phoenix_flame220
Why is there a fuse in the trunk? Is there one under the hood as well?
nope. no fuse at the BAT. just one for each amp. i have a 100amp there that you see and then an 80amp on the other side. no need for one at the BAT. blows too easy. used to use a breaker at the BAT. but it always blew. this is much easier and cheaper.

and if your thinking distance to the BAT. and not haven a fuse there its only in the back seat so not a big deal. iv had no problems with this set up.
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Old 02-26-2008, 06:55 PM   #14
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you should ALWAYS fuse as close to the battery as possible. If the wire burns its going to take your car with it. A fuse will blow the same regardless of where it is placed in the circuit. Having fuses on each amp wire coming from the distribution block is a good idea too, but you really should fuse the main power under the hood. Its just a safety precaution that is worth the 20 bucks for another fuse. Also, if you are blowing the fuse that came with your amp wiring then you should upgrade to larger wire with a larger fuse. Just my .02
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Old 02-26-2008, 07:18 PM   #15
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Yep, it'* true. Saved one of my cars... the hold I drilled in the firewall apparently was sharp and cut through the rubber gromit, and into the insulation the wire. I couldn't figure out why I kept getting blown fuses, but then I checked it out, and the 4ga wire was nearly welded to the firewall. And that'* with an 80amp fuse. Didn't burn anything though, thank goodness.

Use an inline fuse by the batt You shouldn't have problems if all wires are run properly
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Old 02-26-2008, 07:51 PM   #16
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well to make you both happy. with the new set up the amps will only be a max of 2 feet away from the BAT. so therefore i will have the Fuses pretty much right at the BAT> and another reason i did it the way i did was to save on cable. as we all know power wire is not cheap. and i know either is replacing a car.

and i was blowing fuses before cuz between the two amp i was overloading the little 80fuse. and then i tried a 100amp breaker still no good. now i have the 80A on the component amp and the 100A anl on the sub. and no problems. at the time i was running 0 gauge wire so that wasnt the problem.
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Old 02-26-2008, 09:16 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by phoenix_flame220
Why is there a fuse in the trunk? Is there one under the hood as well?
For anyone who doesn't know, 2000+ batteries are located under the rear seat on the passenger side, not under the hood as in previous generations.
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Old 02-26-2008, 10:29 PM   #18
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*Ahem* I would be one of those people who doesnt know.
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Old 02-26-2008, 11:48 PM   #19
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Didn't want to point any fingers so I left names out, phoenix... Especially since I had no idea until I bought my 2000...
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Old 02-27-2008, 07:38 AM   #20
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i did mention that my BAT was in the back seat......

too focussed on what you think i did wrong to see the facts.
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