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Switched subwoofers to skars

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Old 10-10-2023, 12:42 PM
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Default Switched subwoofers to skars

Hey everyone, I posted a new thread about a month ago, and I was talking about buying dual 12” terminators, and I was like nope more power. So I switched them to spend just a little more than I wanted too. But I ended up spending $553.08 on a bundle specifically the dual 12” ported enclosure 1200 watt subs and amp (skar sdr-2x12d2). So I also as well checked my voltage on my battery. It showed up 12.3V (car off), 13.4V (car starting ac, etc), 14.5V (car started completely), problem is, is that with the amplifier that it comes with hits 14.4v while at rms power and peak power. Will that become a problem?
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CathedralCub (10-11-2023)
Old 10-10-2023, 01:38 PM
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Originally Posted by GM20
Hey everyone, I posted a new thread about a month ago, and I was talking about buying dual 12” terminators, and I was like nope more power. So I switched them to spend just a little more than I wanted too. But I ended up spending $553.08 on a bundle specifically the dual 12” ported enclosure 1200 watt subs and amp (skar sdr-2x12d2). So I also as well checked my voltage on my battery. It showed up 12.3V (car off), 13.4V (car starting ac, etc), 14.5V (car started completely), problem is, is that with the amplifier that it comes with hits 14.4v while at rms power and peak power. Will that become a problem?
Also here is working voltage to 8.5V - 14.4V
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Old 10-11-2023, 01:19 AM
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Originally Posted by GM20
problem is, is that with the amplifier that it comes with hits 14.4v while at rms power and peak power. Will that become a problem?
Not sure what you are asking here. The alternator produces the power. When the power gets to the amplifier it will generally be at the voltage that the alternator is producing.
Old 10-11-2023, 05:22 AM
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Originally Posted by CathedralCub
Not sure what you are asking here. The alternator produces the power. When the power gets to the amplifier it will generally be at the voltage that the alternator is producing.
That working voltage is for the amplifier itself that I added under. What I am asking is would I experience headlight dimming with stock electric equipment. I have seen people that don't even do anything to their cars electrical and it runs with no problems. Could this happen with mine and run perfect?
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Old 10-11-2023, 11:20 PM
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Originally Posted by GM20
That working voltage is for the amplifier itself that I added under. What I am asking is would I experience headlight dimming with stock electric equipment. I have seen people that don't even do anything to their cars electrical and it runs with no problems. Could this happen with mine and run perfect?
"Perfect" ? I'm not sure about that.

So it will run at 8.5V-14.4V, okay. The big questions is current draw. How many amps does it draw?
Old 10-12-2023, 08:34 AM
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Originally Posted by CathedralCub
"Perfect" ? I'm not sure about that.

So it will run at 8.5V-14.4V, okay. The big questions is current draw. How many amps does it draw?
Here are the amps specifications. It seems like it is going to run at 1200 watts (14.4v) at 1 ohm. Which seems like it will work. But bass drops are going to definitely have an entrance of headlight dimming.

Old 10-13-2023, 12:21 AM
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Well . . .

1,600W
/ 14.4V
=111.1A

1,600W
/ 12.0V
=133.3A

1,600W
/ 8.5V
=188.2A

1,200W
/ 14.4V
=83.3A

1,200W
/ 12.0V
=100.0A

1,200W
/ 8.5V
=141.2A

Theoretically, you're over-amped in almost all scenarios.

And definitely over-amped if my numbers are anything close to correct in this post.

. . . unless you're going to keep your engine revved up to 2,500+ at all times.

I think you'll need to look into multiple alternators, but it will be quite the adventure getting them to fit:


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