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Old 09-12-2023, 06:11 AM
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Default New audio system

Hey everyone,

I have a 2012 Chevy Sonic LT hatchback (4Cyl if needed) and wanted to ask if all of these aftermarket audio systems will fit my car instead of believing crutchfield on all of this haha. Here are all of the parts I was planning on getting

(Also should I buy a different amplifier for the sub and the speakers since the only amplifier that I will be getting is for the sub and only has inputs for the sub and not enough for the speakers)

(Also just a heads up that I do already have a dash kit coming with it and a new harness for me gaining my warning chimes for warnings in case of engine lights, ABS light chimes, etc is this even needed either? Or will even when I use the harness already attached to the car work on my HU? I also wanted to know if the sub would fit in the trunk of the car, knowing the trunk isn't that big and needing a ground wiring which won't be to hard to do. But also is it possible that it will blow out my windows if they are up and at half volume?

And can this all be handled on just my main battery or is it too hard on the battery?

Links for the products I want to get:

https://www.crutchfield.com/p_236TN2...*-Package.html

https://www.crutchfield.com/p_158DSX...-DSX-B700.html

https://www.crutchfield.com/p_109CL6...lub-625SQ.html

https://www.crutchfield.com/p_109CT601CG/JBL-601C.html

https://www.crutchfield.com/p_142PA8...iring-Kit.html


And in case anyone wanted to know, the total comes out to $887.85 (Total is higher than what it should be because of the aftermarket dash kit and the wiring interface and paying crutchfield to put all of the wiring together so I don't have to do it)
Please let me know!
Thanks!
Old 09-12-2023, 07:42 AM
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Hey everyone,

I have a 2012 Chevy Sonic LT hatchback (4Cyl if needed) and wanted to ask if all of these aftermarket audio systems will fit my car instead of believing crutchfield on all of this haha. Here are all of the parts I was planning on getting.

(Also should I buy a different amplifier for the sub and the speakers since the only amplifier that I will be getting is for the sub and only has inputs for the sub and not enough for the speakers)

(Also just a heads up that I do already have a dash kit coming with it and crutchfields ready-harness for me gaining my warning chimes for warnings in case of engine lights, ABS light chimes, etc. I also wanted to know if the sub would fit in the trunk of the car, knowing the trunk isn't that big and needing a ground wiring which won't be to hard to do. But also is it possible that it will blow out my windows if they are up and volume at half. I just want to know that to keep it in mind, knowing the car itself is pretty thin.

And can this all be handled on just my main battery or is it too hard on the battery?

Links for the products I want to get:

https://www.crutchfield.com/p_236TN2...*-Package.html

https://www.crutchfield.com/p_158DSX...-DSX-B700.html

https://www.crutchfield.com/p_109CL6...lub-625SQ.html

https://www.crutchfield.com/p_109CT601CG/JBL-601C.html

https://www.crutchfield.com/p_142PA8...iring-Kit.html


And in case anyone wanted to know, the total comes out to $782.81 (Total is higher than what it should be because of the aftermarket dash kit and paying crutchfield to put all of the wiring together so I don't have to do it)
Please let me know!
Thanks!
Old 09-12-2023, 07:45 AM
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Default New Audio System

Hey everyone,

I have a 2012 Chevy Sonic LT hatchback (4Cyl if needed) and wanted to ask if all of these aftermarket audio systems will fit my car instead of believing crutchfield on all of this haha. Here are all of the parts I was planning on getting.

(Also should I buy a different amplifier for the sub and the speakers since the only amplifier that I will be getting is for the sub and only has inputs for the sub and not enough for the speakers)

(Also just a heads up that I do already have a dash kit coming with it and crutchfields ready-harness for me gaining my warning chimes for warnings in case of engine lights, ABS light chimes, etc. I also wanted to know if the sub would fit in the trunk of the car, knowing the trunk isn't that big and needing a ground wiring which won't be to hard to do. But also is it possible that it will blow out my windows if they are up and volume at half. I just want to know that to keep it in mind, knowing the car itself is pretty thin.

And can this all be handled on just my main battery or is it too hard on the battery?

Links for the products I want to get:

https://www.crutchfield.com/p_236TN2...*-Package.html

https://www.crutchfield.com/p_158DSX...-DSX-B700.html

https://www.crutchfield.com/p_109CL6...lub-625SQ.html

https://www.crutchfield.com/p_109CT601CG/JBL-601C.html

https://www.crutchfield.com/p_142PA8...iring-Kit.html


And in case anyone wanted to know, the total comes out to $782.81 (Total is higher than what it should be because of the aftermarket dash kit and paying crutchfield to put all of the wiring together so I don't have to do it)
Please let me know!
Thanks!
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CathedralCub (09-13-2023)
Old 09-12-2023, 11:04 AM
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Crutchfield should know what their stuff will fit. They have a pretty good rep for that. I would trust them more than people in a forum unless the forum is for aftermarket installers which we are not.
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CathedralCub (09-13-2023)
Old 09-12-2023, 11:14 AM
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I have had a good first experience with crutchfield. I have only had one purchase with them and I loved it. Worked perfectly, shipped pretty quick. But do you think that it could all run on one battery if you know? It seems like it will, but it’* just I don’t want to short the battery if I am going a little overboard knowing my car and how it’* been running recently. I’m just hoping it won’t end up where they don’t have to tear anything out if it ends up breaking more. It’* not in the greatest condition right now. I have a broken abs sensor so my breaks are all screwed up right now. But other than that at least my car runs lol. But enough of talking about damages. I just hope to god that if it breaks and they have to get in my car they don’t have to rip up the subwoofer cords. But that’* all I was asking for
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Old 09-13-2023, 12:30 AM
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I agree with carfixer007 ^^^^^^^

We are not audio system experts in general. Maybe a member that has a bunch of experience with this will chime in.

I've heard good things about Crutchfield though.

At the same time, we do have other good advice, like: If brakes are in question, fix that first. Nothing like the full-surround 3D experience of the audio of hitting a wall or other obstacle because brake issues got worse, or the immersive phonic experience of a Paccar diesel in a tow truck when something gives up.

. . . but back to your question: I looked at all of your links. They don't seem to directly list [this is how much electricity that this device will consume from your electrical system], so I'll guess based on output:

55W for the head unit
+ 250W for the amp
= 305W
x 1.2 for estimated conversion factor
= 366W
/ 12V
= 30.5A
. . . then . . .
100A <<<since you have the LT, I bet you have the 100A alternator
* 30% <<<My guess of output at idle in warm weather, that 100A is maximum while it is spinning fast
= 30A
- 30.5A <<< from above
= -0.5A
- all the other electrical loads
- efficiency losses
- transmission losses
= negative a whole lot of amps

This is rough math, but I'm sure you can see the general direction of it. You might be overloading the system with this combination depending on how you use it and the speed of the engine while you are using it.
Old 09-13-2023, 12:36 AM
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Merged duplicate thread from here to this thread. Post #1 and Post #2 were from the duplicate thread.

Please do not start multiple threads for the same issue.
Old 09-13-2023, 09:19 AM
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I just kinda wanted to see if anyone had like an ideal area of what is going to happen with the battery. But I do trust crutchfield, but they can be a little wonky sometimes with there size fittings and stuff






Originally Posted by CathedralCub
I agree with carfixer007 ^^^^^^^

We are not audio system experts in general. Maybe a member that has a bunch of experience with this will chime in.

I've heard good things about Crutchfield though.

At the same time, we do have other good advice, like: If brakes are in question, fix that first. Nothing like the full-surround 3D experience of the audio of hitting a wall or other obstacle because brake issues got worse, or the immersive phonic experience of a Paccar diesel in a tow truck when something gives up.

. . . but back to your question: I looked at all of your links. They don't seem to directly list [this is how much electricity that this device will consume from your electrical system], so I'll guess based on output:

55W for the head unit
+ 250W for the amp
= 305W
x 1.2 for estimated conversion factor
= 366W
/ 12V
= 30.5A
. . . then . . .
100A <<<since you have the LT, I bet you have the 100A alternator
* 30% <<<My guess of output at idle in warm weather, that 100A is maximum while it is spinning fast
= 30A
- 30.5A <<< from above
= -0.5A
- all the other electrical loads
- efficiency losses
- transmission losses
= negative a whole lot of amps

This is rough math, but I'm sure you can see the general direction of it. You might be overloading the system with this combination depending on how you use it and the speed of the engine while you are using it.
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Old 09-13-2023, 10:04 AM
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As for the battery you shouldn't have a problem. Possibly the alternator may not be up to par if running everything.
If you have the option of a higher capacity alternator you might want to consider that.
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Old 09-13-2023, 10:18 AM
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I was thinking of just buying it with a capacitor, I don’t know if that’ll help but at least a little bit. But it should run at least I don’t know about it running smoothly, but we will see when it happens! I sure hope that it is great tho. But with my brakes issue. It should be easy. I have to fix a wheel bearing, and a new ABS sensor cause it broke. So my ABS light and traction light on, but during when I start it, it turns on, then turns off, then pressing the brake it tries throwing the pedal back into my foot. Then eventually turns back on both of the lights. It’* nota huge deal tho. We have the wheel bearing cause we knew that the other side was going to get some wear and tear. But I can easily fix that. But I switched out the sub for a bigger one, it’* 500 watts on each sub. So 1,000 watts in total. But the amp is still pretty low for it. The amp is a 500 watt amp. Which is lame, but I’m going to switch out the speakers too. I’ve heard clubs aren’t that good. But I still want to keep it in a good price range. Like 1,500 or 1,600 which is low as hell. But I don’t need a full on setup for it. But I’ll keep you guys updated!


Originally Posted by carfixer007
As for the battery you shouldn't have a problem. Possibly the alternator may not be up to par if running everything.
If you have the option of a higher capacity alternator you might want to consider that.
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