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Audio (and aftermarket electronics) This is your place for alarms, remote starters, to brag about your system, exaggerate your db levels, or simply ask questions for stock or aftermarket audio. No Flames! (except from roasted amps)

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Old 03-15-2006, 04:52 PM   #21
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so are those all i need? or is there another frequency blocker on the back of the 5 1/4'*?
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Old 03-15-2006, 04:56 PM   #22
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no because the 5.25 are full range speakers....the Tweet need the bass blockers to prevent the low freq from damaging the tweeter
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Old 03-15-2006, 06:50 PM   #23
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ok i think i know what happened to my tweeter..........that black thing on the back of them, would not let a current through it when i used a multimeter.............but it would let a current through the gray thing.......so that'* pry what happened to the tweeter
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Old 03-15-2006, 07:05 PM   #24
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Ok, so the bass blockers are on the tweeter, I thought there were on the 5.25, but I guess not. In that case, you should be able to connect the input wires on the tweeter just like your diagram.
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Old 03-15-2006, 07:17 PM   #25
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and it should not mess with the impedance correct? my impedance will be fine for the radio to handle?
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Old 03-15-2006, 07:43 PM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 96bonniessei
and it should not mess with the impedance correct? my impedance will be fine for the radio to handle?
yeah it should be fine.
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Old 03-17-2006, 04:25 PM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 96bonniessei
i think i know what happened to my tweeter..........that black thing on the back of them, would not let a current through it when i used a multimeter.............but it would let a current through the gray thing.......so that'* pry what happened to the tweeter <SNIP>

and it should not mess with the impedance correct? my impedance will be fine for the radio to handle?
Oh man. Sorry to barge in here, but you need a quick lesson on crossovers.

The black thing on your tweeter is a capacitor. A capacitor is two metal plates separated by a gap such that electric charge will build up on the plates. You can't pass DC current from a multimeter through a capacitor because it is physically an air gap and air is, well, a lousy conductor. But audio is not DC, it is AC, and the varying charge on the plates will pass high frequency AC current, but block low frequency AC current (think of DC as Zero Hertz AC), which makes them ideal for use as a "bass blocker" in a speaker crossover. The gray thing is a resistor to lower the overall power through the tweeter to match its output to the 5.25" larger speaker so the two don't sound like "all tweeter". Because the factory tweeter is matched to the factory 5.25" speaker, it might be a bad match for an aftermarket 5.25" full range speaker.

In a properly designed 2-way crossover, there are capacitors that block lows from the tweeter, and there are inductors (coils of insulated wire) to block highs from the woofer. When used properly, an 8 ohm tweeter and an 8 ohm woofer separated by a crossover will appear as a uniform 8 ohm load to your amplifier so your total impedance will remain unaffected.

If you don't use a crossover network, then an 8 ohm tweeter paralleled with an 8 ohm woofer will appear as a 4 ohm load to an amplifier, demanding twice as much current, which your amplifier either can or cannot provide. If it cannot, then if you're lucky it engages a protection circuit. If you're not lucky, then it catches on fire. (Really!)

If you use a random aftermarket 5.25" speaker that has both a woofer and a co-axially mounted tweeter on it, then also connecting the factory tweeter will probably give you sound that has too much tweeter high-end and add phase distortions between the two tweeters. A much more ideal setup is to buy component separates (A prepackaged matched 5.25" woofer with a separate tweeter, and a crossover to connect the two). But these are a lot more expensive than just a good 5.25" co-axially mounted woofer+tweeter combo.

My advice is to either:
(1) Stick with factory speakers and make no other changes.
(2) Go all out and get a set of matched component separates.
(3) Find a 5.25" woofer, and buy a quality 2-way crossover from an autosound dealer to connect the woofer and factory tweeter.
(4) Get a good reasonably-priced 5.25" two-way, use that and leave the factory tweeter disconnected.
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Old 03-17-2006, 06:53 PM   #28
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i figured that might've been a capacitor, but i guess is used the wrong word.....i wasnt trying to send any current through it, ac or dc, i was trying to measure the resistance of the tweeter to be sure it was 4 ohms......but it would not give a reading on the meter

but thank you for saying something, because i wasnt sure if the tweeter with a 5.25 aftermarket speaker would be fine with the resistance load, since i've had a little experience hooking up speakers in my room and wiring 2-3 speakers in one +/- terminal, and i had to wire them correctly so the impedance would be fine with the receiver

so thanks for bringing that up, because i was very worried about the impedance of the 2 speakers hooked together

i think i will just go get a tweeter from a salvage yard, and call it good
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Old 03-17-2006, 06:57 PM   #29
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well wait a minute, component systems on ebay arent that bad $$$ wise, so my question is, where is a good place to mount the crossover? and maybe someone on bc has pictures of their mounted crossovers?
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Old 03-17-2006, 08:28 PM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 96bonniessei
well wait a minute, component systems on ebay arent that bad $$$ wise, so my question is, where is a good place to mount the crossover? and maybe someone on bc has pictures of their mounted crossovers?
I mounted my crossover on the door panel.....But i have excessively LARGE crossovers for my speakers...Here is an idea tho

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