I had a similar problem with my old car. It as a midsize Ford. The pressure coming thru the rear deck was emence because of my 2 15" W3'*... and my roof bould buldge... If I turn off the radio you could accually hear the sheet metal go pop when going back into place. I gutted my back seat and wraped the top fabric on top of fiber glass... and cut holes in the the glass to let the sound thru... so the sound pressure could push thru the seat and not put so much strain on the roof because of the rear deck. The good thing was I could still have people sit in the back... I used fiber glass just because it held the seat together with foam and all cept where the holes were... the steel cage just wouldnt work. And I didnt want to take the seat out completely because I had people ride with me often.

Got an pictures of that old backseat? Courious.

Two words.

WELD.


The other word is WELD also.

I'm thinking 12" I-beams.

thats the best idea ive heard yet russian polar bear but it isnt enogh of a problem to do a bunch of work to the car yet i guess im just looking for an easy solution maybe too easy if i ever upgrade i could do something like that but for right now it just isnt neccessary. besides that all of the preasure is going straight into the cabin almost none if it is hitting the back seats or nething in the trunk but thanx for the help

no i dont not yet i have an old computer might buy disposable camera and scan pictures at the library or something but i will have them soon and when i do ill post them

Technically the subs should be properly loaded. Meaning they should be placed as far away from the listener as possible, the far corners of the trunk or the kickpanels. This setup allows the bass waves to develop fully, as well as directs them towards the listener.