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Old 04-13-2010, 03:03 PM   #11
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I have posted a couple of pictures of my stereo. I will try and get some more of inside the dash when i have time
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Old 04-13-2010, 11:41 PM   #12
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So i went out and bought a Dremel and i am going to try and cut out the back this weekend. Thanks for everyones input. I still need help on a couple other things. I bought a pair of Alpine component speakers for my front and got the 6 1/2'* installed but the tweeters wouldn't fit. Now that i have something to cut it with i think i can make them fit. The question is i wasn't sure if there was a cross over built in the sends the high'* to the tweeter and the mids and lows to the 6 1/2 or not. If so i would have the use the wiring that is already there. If there isn't a cross over should i use the connections to connect the sweeter to the 6 1/2?

I also bought a SWI-JACK for my steering wheel controls. I wasn't sure where to find the specific wire to connect it to for it to work. Has anyone installed one of these and know where to locate the wire?

Thanks in advance
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Old 04-13-2010, 11:52 PM   #13
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The wire for the SWI-JACK is going to be under your driver side dash. You will pull the leather panel, then the plastic panel has two bolts and it comes out. There are two harnesses, I believe the wire you want is in the right harness. Be sure to check your colors carefully. Also read the programming instructions carefully. First time I programmed it I programmed volume up to be not pressing any button. That was almost bad.

I was able to dremel my tweeter pods out to fit new tweeters, although later ended up building the pods out with bondo to fit the tweeters better.

Do you have a monsoon or bose system factory? If so, your going to want to bypass the factory amp, and it would probably be best to have a separate crossover network. The factory amp has 4 inputs, and 8 outputs I believe as far as speaker wires go. Front left and right input, and rear left and right input. Crosses over in the amp, then sent out to each individual speaker. You could bypass the amp and run the inputs into a crossover that splits the output to a high and low for tweeter and driver for the fronts, and then for the rears power the rear door speakers off the rear channels, and leave out the 6x9'* replacing them with a subwoofer. This is just my suggestion, there are other ways to do it. It is also dependent on your system being layed out like I think it is.
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Old 04-13-2010, 11:55 PM   #14
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I guess I should also mention that the best thing to do is run all new wiring to the speakers since with the previous method, you would be sending a lot of power through factory wiring which is going to affect how much of it actually makes it to the speakers. All new wiring is going to be a pretty good project though.
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Old 04-14-2010, 12:00 AM   #15
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I have a 2005 Bonneville SE i know i dont have a bose and i dont think its a monsoon either. I just have the front 2 6 1/2'*, tweeters and then the 6x9'* in the rear deck. No speakers in the rear doors.

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Old 04-14-2010, 12:11 AM   #16
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Ok, I'm not familiar with the layout of that system. Hopefully someone with more experience in the SE system will jump in. Otherwise I would take a look at the wiring and figure out which way they have it hooked up. Either the radio is going to have 6 outputs, one for each speaker, or it will have 4, and there will be a crossover somewhere, most likely in the front doors or built into the speaker somewhere. Either way, your still going to need a crossover for the front speakers, you don't want to run your tweeters full range. If the wires going to your front 6 1/2'* work when you wire in the radio, send them into a crossover and it will split them out for the driver and tweeter.
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Old 04-14-2010, 12:17 AM   #17
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These are the speakers i bought for the fronts

http://www.bestbuy.com/site/Alpine+-...&skuId=8699438

The tweeters are meant to be connect to the 6 1/2 and i think there is a HPF in the wire from the 6 1/2 to the tweeter. But if there is already a crossover built in then the 6 1/2 wouldn't be getting the highs anyways so it wouldn't work right.
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Old 04-14-2010, 12:28 AM   #18
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If you find a line that has sound coming out of it in the door (most likely the line running to your factory driver), it will be full range because the new radio is putting out full range. So you could then hook them up like your saying, full range into the driver, then the tweeter output to the tweeter.
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Old 04-14-2010, 12:30 AM   #19
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Okay i will play around with it and see what i come up with. Thanks!
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