Well Just a few tidbits that I can't never seem to get answers to for 2k B'villes

Finally got my new HU installed (Kenwood)

The ribbon adapter is a standard GM adapter which is a FEMALE
connector that clips on the ribbon leavin' a harness of wires to tap into.
http://www.scosche.com/scosche.aspx?...8&ItemID=GM07B

1'st there is no SWITCHED (red) at the adapter on unamplified systems.
Amped systems should have switched power on the third to last pin on the
bottom right of the factory ribbon plug. (A 3) - or the intent is to feed 12v down
this wire to power the rear amplifier harness - donno and dont have an amp'd car.
There is also a 12v switched in the rear harness (behind driver rear seat) Pink.
No power for me there either so you see why I can not verify this pinout.

Same power issue I had installin' my Amp. The (most convient) Lighter at the front
console is DOA on my rig (as purchased) No 12v on the wire at all so I had to tap into
the rear lighter again.... Brother....

Anyway there are 2 12v always on yellow leads I tapped both
to feed the HU (why not - they join at the ribbon) and 2 leads
are better than one right!?

Jerk the BROWNS (dimmer) out of the adapter as well

You get
3 Grounds
R-F/R L-F/R
2 12v constant
Orange (illumination) which worked!
Red (Antenna) marked 12 volt switched

Pull switched power from an accessory circuit (lighter)
but you must swap fuse positions for the circuit to die with
the ign (other option is always on) for the accessory circuits.

There are 3 ground leads the two at the speaker end of
the connector ground to the x-member at the passenger seat
(forward of the crossmember) the other ground (near the power)
is located on the lower right front 'A' pillar as I recall.

ANT enable - clearly marked on my diagrams (flat 1487) which needs
12v to enable - but punch down on the switched 12v at the adapter.
Needs the HU'* antenna lead.

Ohh the big catch WAS the antenna adapter
You'll need a female to male changer for
AUDI - Volkswagon Import ! - 40-VW10 -

neither GM10 / GM20 will work Be aware of this adapter change:
http://www.metraonline.com/product.aspx?sku=40-VW10

I ended up with a install Kit for a Caddilac/Seville (Metra 99-2002)
with 1/2 din pocket (until I dig up an 1/2 din eq) There is a kit or two
for the bonnie but an installer handed me this kit and said "might require
a little modification". Told him I could handle a dremel and off I went.

http://www.metraonline.com/turbokit.aspx

Suprisingly it was a no big deal mod.
Removed the hook tabs - cut back the rear mount some and it fit.
Used the old snap clips for the factory head and secured them to the cage
- like a factory install the HU is hard fixed to the cage and the whole unit
"can" be pulled out like factory.

I say "can" because once it'* in it'* a huge bear to get the tabs out
- or the system in for that matter!

There is NO space back there once the adapters are plugged in and RCA'*
attached to the head. VERY tight space and had to massage the ribbon
and adapter many times to get it to snap in place.

the rough opening is (it'* a tape measure now....)
7 1/4" wide by 6 1/4" deep and 4 1/8" high
-- from the front face of the faceplate --
Faceplate is 7 3/4" x 4 5/16"

Sounds great but have more IGN/ALT noise using the low level feeds.
Had to throttle back the gains - have a PAC suppressor will post findings.

Conclusion:
Standard HU'* are a tough fit DEPTH wise
No 12v raised with IGN on the ribbon (power for antenna)
use the AUDI / VW antenna adapter
Check your wiring before final fitment

You'll loose Door chimes
(no more loud Ding Ding - WASHER FLUID LOW!)
Power Off when door open (now it'* on until ACC dies)
Wheel controls (I'll post the SWI-X info when it'* in)

I USE CAPS for EMPHASIS so NO I'm not shouting...

Sorry I don't post here much anymore but wish you all well...

FWIW
HowY


made a sticky due to a lot of recent request for information
Gumball

good info. I will anxiously wait to see how you did the PAC-SWIx install. I have no idea which wires to tap into, or where. I assume the steering column but I don't know which ones. Like I said, I can't wait until you show us the way.

Here ya go..

http://www.pac-audio.com/swixprogram...Vehicles&ID=13

if it was only that easy as the PAC web site says i read that and still can't find this "Lt green" wire

you can keep door chimes onstar, and all of the other fuctions by getting the coresponding moduals. I talked to a couple of places and they say that you loose diagnastic capabilitys when you use an aftermarket deck. They looked for a modual to fix that and they couldn't find one. You can get modual to fix the other amenaties but they can be spendy, but Im sure you can find a good price on the internet. If you find them give me a PM or create a Post.

Nope not true

Verified all diags against Omni & GenSys scans tools
and run diagnostics just like with my factory HU

The door chime module is actually a known stinker with a good pop
and crackle at times to make it truly annoying... nearly as bad as
jammin' round the cloverleaf and getting the low washer fluid alarm.

There are losses with chimes... and the factory HU

Youll lock your keys in the car now....
radio is powered until ACC dies (5 minutes or so)
-- Wont die with opening the doors--
No Door chimes
No OnStar - but their module is available and functional

BUT you get Audio ** AT LAST ** !

well i guess when I service the car I will just install the stock. I wouldn't think it would take more that one/half hour to swap back and forth.

So all I should buy is a ribbon wire harness, and forget about the rest of the moduals. cause I can always swap back and forth.

Radio / Dash removal

Press UP on the center of the two plastic rivets above the guage cluster
remove said rivets
remove pocket/panel lower left steering column
remove trim ring around ignition key
grasp facia above air control cluster
pry up
unplug the tire pressure cluster
remove by rotating counter clockwise over steering wheel
careful of the steering tilt armature

Press in 4 metal tabs to release the head unit

Here'* the pinout

|GND|RR-|RR+|LF-|LF+|open|open|open|open|open|open| GND | ILLU | ANT | +12v | +12v |
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
|GND|RF+|RF-|LR+|LR-|open|open|open|open|open|open|open|open| OPEN | data | data |

Notes
OPEN: Line A3 - 12v switched
data: The class 2 data bus leads

----> looking for an input?
Left to Right bottom row after the LR- pin: | Right Audio In | Left Audio In | Common In |

So I'd imagine tapping into the harness MIGHT provide an input option

Got the Key deal wrong.... DUH!

The lock will still not enguage with the key in the IGN just no Chimes

My bad.....

To finish up this post...
SWI-X INSTALL
http://www.buy.com/retail/product.as...5&loc=111&sp=1

Remove lower skirt panel from under the column
it prys from rear of panel toward the back of the car
4 clips.... drew blood...

Remove the Two phillips screws retaining under dash liner
Disconnect the courtesy light
remove the under dash liner

Disconnect 40 pin connector RIGHT side of column
Draw the latch from rear to front (push) to disenguage

Locate pin D8 - Solid Blue wire- at the far corner of the connector
(Upper most left corner when plugged in to the harness)

D8 is clearly embossed on the connector alignment pin

Your final SWI-X pinout is (when plugged into the PAC module)

| PURPLE | PURPLE | BLACK | open | open | RED | open | open | GREEN | open | open |

The Purple wires loop together
Black (-) 12v
Red (+)12v
Green is TAPPED into the D8 wire described above

Use a 'T' tap and spade terminal or a 'ScotchLoc' (what I used)

Program for type '1'

Have FUN!