Head Unit Install on 2000 Bonneville
Well Just a few tidbits that I can't never seem to get answers to for 2k B'villes
Finally got my new HU installed (Kenwood) The ribbon adapter is a standard GM adapter which is a FEMALE connector that clips on the ribbon leavin' a harness of wires to tap into. http://www.scosche.com/scosche.aspx?...8&ItemID=GM07B 1'st there is no SWITCHED (red) at the adapter on unamplified systems. Amped systems should have switched power on the third to last pin on the bottom right of the factory ribbon plug. (A 3) - or the intent is to feed 12v down this wire to power the rear amplifier harness - donno and dont have an amp'd car. There is also a 12v switched in the rear harness (behind driver rear seat) Pink. No power for me there either so you see why I can not verify this pinout. Same power issue I had installin' my Amp. The (most convient) Lighter at the front console is DOA on my rig (as purchased) No 12v on the wire at all so I had to tap into the rear lighter again.... Brother.... Anyway there are 2 12v always on yellow leads I tapped both to feed the HU (why not - they join at the ribbon) and 2 leads are better than one right!? Jerk the BROWNS (dimmer) out of the adapter as well You get 3 Grounds R-F/R L-F/R 2 12v constant Orange (illumination) which worked! Red (Antenna) marked 12 volt switched Pull switched power from an accessory circuit (lighter) but you must swap fuse positions for the circuit to die with the ign (other option is always on) for the accessory circuits. There are 3 ground leads the two at the speaker end of the connector ground to the x-member at the passenger seat (forward of the crossmember) the other ground (near the power) is located on the lower right front 'A' pillar as I recall. ANT enable - clearly marked on my diagrams (flat 1487) which needs 12v to enable - but punch down on the switched 12v at the adapter. Needs the HU's antenna lead. Ohh the big catch WAS the antenna adapter You'll need a female to male changer for AUDI - Volkswagon Import ! - 40-VW10 - neither GM10 / GM20 will work Be aware of this adapter change: http://www.metraonline.com/product.aspx?sku=40-VW10 I ended up with a install Kit for a Caddilac/Seville (Metra 99-2002) with 1/2 din pocket (until I dig up an 1/2 din eq) There is a kit or two for the bonnie but an installer handed me this kit and said "might require a little modification". Told him I could handle a dremel and off I went. http://www.metraonline.com/turbokit.aspx Suprisingly it was a no big deal mod. Removed the hook tabs - cut back the rear mount some and it fit. Used the old snap clips for the factory head and secured them to the cage - like a factory install the HU is hard fixed to the cage and the whole unit "can" be pulled out like factory. I say "can" because once it's in it's a huge bear to get the tabs out - or the system in for that matter! There is NO space back there once the adapters are plugged in and RCA's attached to the head. VERY tight space and had to massage the ribbon and adapter many times to get it to snap in place. the rough opening is (it's a tape measure now....) 7 1/4" wide by 6 1/4" deep and 4 1/8" high -- from the front face of the faceplate -- Faceplate is 7 3/4" x 4 5/16" Sounds great but have more IGN/ALT noise using the low level feeds. Had to throttle back the gains - have a PAC suppressor will post findings. Conclusion: Standard HU's are a tough fit DEPTH wise No 12v raised with IGN on the ribbon (power for antenna) use the AUDI / VW antenna adapter Check your wiring before final fitment You'll loose Door chimes (no more loud Ding Ding - WASHER FLUID LOW!) Power Off when door open (now it's on until ACC dies) Wheel controls (I'll post the SWI-X info when it's in) I USE CAPS for EMPHASIS so NO I'm not shouting... Sorry I don't post here much anymore but wish you all well... FWIW HowY made a sticky due to a lot of recent request for information Gumball |
good info. I will anxiously wait to see how you did the PAC-SWIx install. I have no idea which wires to tap into, or where. I assume the steering column but I don't know which ones. Like I said, I can't wait until you show us the way. :)
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if it was only that easy as the PAC web site says i read that and still can't find this "Lt green" wire
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you can keep door chimes onstar, and all of the other fuctions by getting the coresponding moduals. I talked to a couple of places and they say that you loose diagnastic capabilitys when you use an aftermarket deck. They looked for a modual to fix that and they couldn't find one. You can get modual to fix the other amenaties but they can be spendy, but Im sure you can find a good price on the internet. If you find them give me a PM or create a Post.
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Nope not true
Verified all diags against Omni & GenSys scans tools and run diagnostics just like with my factory HU The door chime module is actually a known stinker with a good pop and crackle at times to make it truly annoying... nearly as bad as jammin' round the cloverleaf and getting the low washer fluid alarm. There are losses with chimes... and the factory HU Youll lock your keys in the car now.... radio is powered until ACC dies (5 minutes or so) -- Wont die with opening the doors-- No Door chimes No OnStar - but their module is available and functional BUT you get Audio ** AT LAST ** ! |
well i guess when I service the car I will just install the stock. I wouldn't think it would take more that one/half hour to swap back and forth.
So all I should buy is a ribbon wire harness, and forget about the rest of the moduals. cause I can always swap back and forth. |
2000 Radio Pinout
Radio / Dash removal
Press UP on the center of the two plastic rivets above the guage cluster remove said rivets remove pocket/panel lower left steering column remove trim ring around ignition key grasp facia above air control cluster pry up unplug the tire pressure cluster remove by rotating counter clockwise over steering wheel careful of the steering tilt armature Press in 4 metal tabs to release the head unit Here's the pinout |GND|RR-|RR+|LF-|LF+|open|open|open|open|open|open| GND | ILLU | ANT | +12v | +12v | ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------ |GND|RF+|RF-|LR+|LR-|open|open|open|open|open|open|open|open| OPEN | data | data | Notes OPEN: Line A3 - 12v switched data: The class 2 data bus leads ----> looking for an input? Left to Right bottom row after the LR- pin: | Right Audio In | Left Audio In | Common In | So I'd imagine tapping into the harness MIGHT provide an input option |
Got the Key deal wrong.... DUH!
The lock will still not enguage with the key in the IGN just no Chimes My bad..... |
Swi-x install
To finish up this post...
SWI-X INSTALL http://www.buy.com/retail/product.as...5&loc=111&sp=1 Remove lower skirt panel from under the column it prys from rear of panel toward the back of the car 4 clips.... drew blood... Remove the Two phillips screws retaining under dash liner Disconnect the courtesy light remove the under dash liner Disconnect 40 pin connector RIGHT side of column Draw the latch from rear to front (push) to disenguage Locate pin D8 - Solid Blue wire- at the far corner of the connector (Upper most left corner when plugged in to the harness) D8 is clearly embossed on the connector alignment pin Your final SWI-X pinout is (when plugged into the PAC module) | PURPLE | PURPLE | BLACK | open | open | RED | open | open | GREEN | open | open | The Purple wires loop together Black (-) 12v Red (+)12v Green is TAPPED into the D8 wire described above Use a 'T' tap and spade terminal or a 'ScotchLoc' (what I used) Program for type '1' Have FUN! |
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