Got my alarm in the mail today: - Page 4 - GM Forum - Buick, Cadillac, Chev, Olds, GMC & Pontiac chat


Audio (and aftermarket electronics) This is your place for alarms, remote starters, to brag about your system, exaggerate your db levels, or simply ask questions for stock or aftermarket audio. No Flames! (except from roasted amps)

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Old 04-23-2004, 10:55 PM   #31
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Do you have access to a fax machine or can you scan and email just the wire diagram that came with your alarm? I couldn't find one on the internet. I want to make sure that we are on the same page here.

when you say things like this:
Quote:
When i connect this wire ill be done with this harness.
I'm not quite sure what you mean. Is this the wire you are looking to connect to the CC?

BTW, it must look like a birds nest under that dash of yours having more than one aftermarket device, no?
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Old 04-24-2004, 09:13 AM   #32
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that really isnt important. What i meant is that there are 4 different wiring harnesses that you have to splice into the car'* wiring with. I have one of them about done. Its mainly to let you know how much progress im making on the installation
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Old 04-24-2004, 03:54 PM   #33
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i could take a pic of the wiring diagram so everybody knows what your working with?
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Old 04-24-2004, 06:32 PM   #34
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Good idea joe. i can take the pic though.
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Old 04-26-2004, 12:20 PM   #35
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Joe maybe it would be easier if you could suply the pic. Ive tried several things to get a better discription on here and im getting kicked in the *** each time
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Old 04-26-2004, 12:30 PM   #36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by randman1
Quote:
Originally Posted by GAMEOVER
on mine when you start it via remote the only thing that goes on is the CC not the radio or anything esle
Right! 'Cause the orange wire is energized during remote start operation. The brown wire (accessory) is not necessary to maintain the engine or heater so there is no need to energize that circuit.
(Don't mind me; I'm just getting caught up after a long weekend...)

To be specific, there are two large wires controlled by the ignition switch in addition to the mandatory pink (for Engine Run) and light-yellow (for Starter Cranking):

Brown activates the low-drain accessories such as wipers or stereo, things that go on when you twist the ignition key backwards to the Accessory position.

Orange activates the high-drain accessories such as the blower motors, power windows and such, things that go on only when you turn on the ignition.

Your remote starter does not necessarily have to turn on either the orange or brown wires; only the pink and light-yellow connections are required. But to enable the car to be heated or cooled by the HVAC system after the remote starter has started the car, you're going to need to connect the orange wire.

On one of my cars, I don't have the brown wire connected to its remote starter, so the stereo stays silent while I'm not actually in the car with the keys in. I find that that'* convenient, because when I'm listening to tapes, I want to pick up where I left off when I return to the car; I don't want the tape to keep on going while I'm not around to hear it.
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Old 04-26-2004, 03:10 PM   #37
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Ok now i need to know if the brown wire in that is in the headlight switch is +12 volt switched or if it is ground switched. you also mentioned in a post before this that i will need to inject power into my parking light relay wire. How would i do this and how would i then hook it up to my parking lights themselves. thanx
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Old 04-26-2004, 04:30 PM   #38
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jachin
Ok now i need to know if the brown wire in that is in the headlight switch is +12 volt switched or if it is ground switched.
It is +12V switched. Just about the only circuit on your car that'* ground-switched is the interior-light circuit.

Quote:
You also mentioned in a post before this that I will need to inject power into my parking light relay wire.
Okay, first of all, you do _not_ have a parking-light relay, okay? You may be thinking of other cars, such as some Ford models which use relays to control circuits that go through smart switches on the steering column, to avoid having to pull major current through the steering column switchgear (e.g. the turn-signal-lever lighting switch on Ford Escorts).

In contrast, on your car, that brown wire goes straight from the headlight switch to the outside lamps; there is no relay. Connect that brown wire to a power source, and your lights will go on (except for the headlamps; they have their own circuits).

Quote:
How would i do this and how would i then hook it up to my parking lights themselves. thanx
I assume your aftermarket box has a wire coming out that'* supposed to control your parking lights. Are they telling you that you can connect that wire directly to your parking lights, or are they telling you to use a relay?

This is going to take a little while, so pull up a chair and make yourself comfortable, and let'* see if we can explain what your installation manual doesn't seem to be helping you with.

I think you're going to need a relay anyway, unless the wire from the aftermarket box is +12V _and_ can deliver enough amperage to light a couple-dozen bulbs. Usually a relay is used here, because of that current involved: what the relay does is divert power from the two red ignition wires (the always-hot ones that are powering your aftermarket box) and inject it into the brown wire, so the lights will come on (or blink, or whatever the box wants to do with them). The wire from the box that controls this relay needs only a small amount of current to do that job.

So your relay has four contacts on it. (If it has five, ignore the one in the middle for now, and we'll get to that later.) If it'* an industry-standard one, you should find by squinting at it that the four contacts are numbered 30, 85, 86 and 87. (The one in the middle, if present, may be 87a.) Look for little molded numbers next to the contacts, or perhaps a circuit sticker on the side of the relay. 85 connects to 86, and 30 connects to 87. Each pin connects to the one directly opposite.

The way it works is, whenever current flows from 85 to 86, it will close the contacts to connect 30 to 87. So 85->86 is your control circuit, such as the wire coming from your alarm box, and 30->87 is the honkin' big circuit that you want to control, with its power coming in on 30 and going out on 87 whenever the relay closes.

(If you have a 5-pin relay with a pin 87a in the middle, that output is normally closed, connected to pin 30 _until_ the relay energizes, at which point pin 87a goes dead and pin 87 goes live. So you can use the 5-pin relay to switch outputs between one circuit and another one, or swap it around and switch _inputs_ from one circuit to another one, whatever floats your boat.)

So to summarize, your typical wiring in this case will probably be:

Pin 30: +12V supply power for lighting power feed, from your red wires
Pin 85: +12V wire from aftermarket control box, to close the relay when it wants to
Pin 86: ground connection for wire from aftermarket control box
Pin 87: tap into brown wire from headlamp switch, to turn on lights when relay closes

Okay so far? Here'* where things can get a little tricky.

If your installation manual says that your control wire is -12V (negative pulse), not +12V, this means that it is opening a ground connection, not providing a power source to close the relay. So in order to operate a relay with this kind of control wire, you need to power the relay with a hot lead, so that when your control box opens a negative connection, that grounds your relay and switches it on. For this trick, the supply power you're getting from your red wires is going to go to both Pin 30 _and_ Pin 86. When a ground connection opens up on Pin 85, the relay closes its main contacts and your parking lights go on.

So _if_ (and only if) your installation manual says that its control wire is -12V, not +12V, your wiring will be:

Pin 30: +12V supply power for lighting power feed, from your red wires
Pin 85: -12V wire from aftermarket control box, to close the relay when it wants to
Pin 86: +12V supply power for lighting power feed, from your red wires (same as Pin 30)
Pin 87: tap into brown wire from headlamp switch, to turn on lights when relay closes

So now that you're thoroughly confused, take a few minutes to read through it again (ideally with your instructions to refer to, and a relay to look at), and let us know if any of this helps.
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Old 04-26-2004, 05:26 PM   #39
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P.*. One more thing: Radio Shack has both 4-pin and 5-pin relays available; the 4-pin is part #275-226 and can be found at their website ( http://www.radioshack.com ). The 5-pin is pictured on the BulldogSecurity website here: http://www.bulldogsecurity.com/images/Model757.jpg

A 5-pin or 4-pin relay is basically the same thing, either with or without the pin 87a in the middle, respectively. Any good electrical supply place should have them. (Realistically, I think the RatShack relay is way overpriced; I was just looking for an on-line image that I could point you to.)
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Old 04-26-2004, 09:55 PM   #40
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ok im going to try to add that relay tomorow. I need to know where to connect the following wires.

The positive safety shut down switch input for the brake switch.
I need to know which wire is positive and which is negative for the neutral safety switch and where the switch is.
I need to know where to connect the instant trigger ground
I need to know where to connect the instant start and turn off input.

I think thats about it for now. thanx
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