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Old Sep 21, 2003 | 03:42 PM
  #21  
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N\m that question, I dont know what I was thinkin. I took apart the fuse box yesterday and saw that the cig. lighter and the radio had a red wire soldered onto the top of the fuse (the colored side). What are those for? Ill probably use the radio leads, it has a thick blue wire on one side and a smaller brown one on the other side. Which one should I splice the light into? To splice I just take off a little insulation on the wire and solder the lightbulb lead directly on, correct?
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Old Sep 22, 2003 | 09:02 AM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by macho_mike21
N\m that question, I dont know what I was thinkin. I took apart the fuse box yesterday and saw that the cig. lighter and the radio had a red wire soldered onto the top of the fuse (the colored side). What are those for?
Soldered on the top of the fuse??? I have no idea. That doesn't sound factory at all.

I'll probably use the radio leads, it has a thick blue wire on one side and a smaller brown one on the other side. Which one should I splice the light into?
What'* the rating on that radio fuse? I'm wondering if you're not going to overload that circuit with your new light.

Anyhow, whichever fuse you want to piggy-back on to, you just need to make sure that you're tapping the protected side, so that if a short occurs and the fuse blows, all power will be cut. In other words, if you hang on a new device that causes a short in that circuit, you want to make sure the fuse will blow. So pull the fuse out of the fusebox, use your test light to see which of the two socket contacts is the hot one, then add your wiring connection to the _other_ one, which is the protected side of the fuse.

To splice I just take off a little insulation on the wire and solder the lightbulb lead directly on, correct?
Sure. I just use my soldering iron to melt the insulation off, rather than trying to slice it off with a knife (which usually ends up severing some strands of wire along with it). Just run the iron about ¼" to ½" along the wire to melt down to the strands inside, then as soon as it'* cool enough to touch, you can pull off the rest of the insulation at that spot. After you've soldered the new lead on to it, tape it securely. (Okay, you knew that. )
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Old Sep 22, 2003 | 07:03 PM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by acg_ssei
Soldered on the top of the fuse??? I have no idea. That doesn't sound factory at all.

What'* the rating on that radio fuse? I'm wondering if you're not going to overload that circuit with your new light.
Wait, the previous owner, (my uncle), had a big old dinosaur mobile phone...I wonder if those have something to do with it? I am pretty sure that the phone had RAP power goin to it, I never thought about it until now. I guess I could use that wire!

The radio uses a 10A fuse, the light that I plan to use is only .5A, and I never really take the factory system that high up in dBs.
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Old Sep 23, 2003 | 09:46 AM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by macho_mike21
Originally Posted by acg_ssei
Soldered on the top of the fuse??? I have no idea. That doesn't sound factory at all.
Wait, the previous owner, (my uncle), had a big old dinosaur mobile phone...
Hey, sport, don't knock the "big old dinosaur mobile phone" if you haven't tried one in a car. My SSEi has a Motorola unit in it: tough pedestal-mounted handset, backlit red LCD display to go nicely with the dash lighting, hands-free system with a microphone over the windshield and speaker hidden under the console, 6 watts of transmitting power, and everyone I talk to thinks I'm on a land line. I'm keeping that phone until either it dies or Verizon finally abandons the analog cellular network.

I wonder if those have something to do with it? I am pretty sure that the phone had RAP power goin to it, I never thought about it until now. I guess I could use that wire!
I guess so; it sounds like that'* what it might have been for.

The radio uses a 10A fuse, the light that I plan to use is only .5A, and I never really take the factory system that high up in dBs.
Sure; give it a whirl.
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