I just mounted two 5 1/4 speakers in the front doors and I'm having trouble with the panels wanting to vibrate (creating hum) at certain frequencies in the music. I'm thinking the panels aren't tight yet like they were at the factory. The two smaller screws on the door panel near the speaker section are pretty much hosed. They just keep turnning when you try to tighten. I'm thinking I'll need to make new holes for the screws to drive in to, and then maybe also put some insulation in the door to reduce the issue even after the door is tight. I can fix the problem if I sit there and hold the door panel tight against the door, so I'm pretty sure it'* not the speaker.
Any suggestions?

This is on a '93 bonne non-SE by the way. oops!

what u said should pretty much work if not try hot glue it bonds good is obsrobant and shouldnt be too hard to get off

Good suggestion. Anyone else have anything to add?

Oh you might want to do the same to the window switches (if power windows) and the grey piece around the door handle (mine vibrate).

Can you tell me how you got the door panels off PLEASE.
Thanks
Wesley

Try a sound deadening material applied to the door panel, such as Dynamat or B-Quiet damping material. What you wish to do is mass-load the door panel so that you will effectively lower the intrinsic resonant frequency of the door panel. Dynamat, B-Quiet, et al, are all mass-loading sheets (usually made out of asphalt or another dense material) that will lower the resonant frequency of whatever they are applied to.

I think something else you can try is fill the door panel with poly-fill (I haven't tried this yet, but I'll be doing my doors next weekend and will report on results). Crutchfield will charge you $8/lb for the stuff, but run out to Walmart (or another large value store) and I've seen a pound and a half sell for $1.20. Pick up a few pounds and stuff the doors.

Good luck, let us know what works and what doesn't.

I had rattles & buzzing in my doors & fixed them last summer. I removed the door panels and used hot melt glue inside around the plastic cupholder insert and all the plastic parts that want to move & squeak. Next I used Brown Bread from the B Quiet guys. This stuff is cheap & easy to use. Put it on the metal of the door under the clear plastic after gently tightening every screw & bolt you can find on the door. You can put more Brown Bread on the inside of the door panel itself.
Here its the best stuff for sqeaks where plastic parts meet. I bought a tube of silicon grease lubricant from the dealer. GM recommends this as a weatherstripping lubricant. It is in a large blue tube and was about $10-$15. It is clear and if you wipe it on all the plastic parts such as the clip with the light on the door handle and the power window switch before snapping them in place and they will not squeak. Also good around the plastic trim piece that snaps on the dash around the radio.

To get the doors off there is a procedure in the techinfo area, common problems, and also i did it today!

1) remove the black plastic piece witht he mirror adjuster, and control light. the bottom part is held with a trim clip that can be pulled in or out, it may not seem like it, but it does.
The top has a piece that goes up, and you can push down on it with a screwdriver where it enters the door to pull it. Remove the big socket bolt behind it, and pull the wiring harnesses out from behind the door (they're there trust me)

2) remove the lighting strip, the clear one. push a small screwdriver in the backside of the assembly, and pry it out. You don't need to remove the bulbs, it'* got a wiring harness that attatches to it, and not the bulbs. Remove the two socket bolts behind the light area.

3) remove the screws around the speaker area if still there.

4) pop the black piece out from behind the door opening handle with a flathead screwdriver. Behind it is a Torx t-15 bolt holding he larger black plastic piece in place. Remove that bolt as well. Pull the "locking" slider off of the rod now. It takes a lil jimmying, but it comes off of a wire clothes hanger type of rod pretty easily. YOU must do this.

5) start pulling the panel clips out. they should re-use just fine, and just pull out on the door. Pulling up and out helps too at the end. make sure you can hold the panel while you remove the connections and harnesses once it is out.

A cheap alternative to all the Industry Specific adhesives would be a double sided foam tape. You can use multiple layers to build up if necessary, it doesan't ahdere permanently, and best of all it'* available anywhere you can buy window/door insulation products (WalMart, Home Depot, etc)

I've used this to fix loose door and interior trim panels before, and it works very well.