Can I repalce the rear deck 6x9'* inside the car or do I have to get in the trunk to replace them ?

I ask as there is no way I would ever get out of the trunk once in there... :P

Just picked up some replacement 0nes last night.

You must remove them from the interior. Remove the grills and you can pop out the stock 6x9 brackets from the rear deck with the 6x9'* still in them

Be careful about removing your grills. Your model has plastic pegs up front, and plastic tabs along the sides and back, that will more than likely break on you if you are not carefull. Also, keep in mind that your grill is part plastic,part metal, with the metal folded over the plastic. When you go to remove the grills, the metal teeth that are bent under the plastic will get caught up in the deck carpet, making it that much more difficult to remove. Is it possible to remove? Yes, but you must be patient with those grills.

If patience isn't your thing and you don't want to mess up your grills, take out the back seat (first the bottom, then the top), and pop out I think 3 of those black plastic trees that secure the rear deck to the deck metal. You can then remove the rear deck in its entirety.

I found this to be very helpful

I was just wondering how many watts the bose amp is?
If anyone knows please let me know?
aim davetgoodguy743

ive often wondered the same thing... if i had to guess i would say around 100 watts

i have a 2000 bonnie SSEi, the farctory stereo, which is bose, sounds great.... all i did to mine was disconnected the back speakers and installed an RF module to 2 12"subs... connected the remote to the factory amp and the battery is under the seat.... aside from triyng to find the remote wire it was one of the easiest installations that i have ever done... i originally wnated to replace the stereo but i didnt want to lose function with the steering wheel controls the HUD... The only thing that really sucks is the auto bass leveling of the bose radio... Sometimes i get alot of base during low volumes....

i didn't bother reading past the 1st page but the large number of inaccuracies and false statements is astounding. someone who actually knows about car audio should go over and take out all of the incorrect and false statements.

for example:

A.-if you want a little bit better sound, go for speakers with less ohms. This will mean you will lose less power/watts between the amp/head unit and the speakers. Also means better sound quality. Also consider what watts you will run the speakers at. It would be a waste of money IMO to buy speakers with high watt ratings, and not power them very high. You could also add a cheap aftermarket head unit for a little gain. If you only want a little bit better sound, you might want to stay cheap. Its up to you.

100% false.

How to achieve good sound quality: The most important thing is to make sure your head unit is equiped with time delay and that your delays are set properly. What time delay does is it puts a delay on the sound coming from the closest speaker to you so that the sound from each speaker hits your ears at the same time. This can make a huge difference in the higher freaquency ranges where there are only fractions of a second between when the sound waves contract and expand, that time, by the way, determines freaquency.

inaccurate and partly false:
proof:
speed of sound at sea level = 340.29 miles per second
or
1,129 feet per second
so .001 of a second is = to 1.129 feet
so if the speaker is 4 feet away from you it takes roughly .004 or 4 thousandths of a second to reach your ears from speaker...
now if you other speaker is say only 3 feet away it would take .003 or 3 thousandths of a second for it to reach your ear.
the difference in this case is .001 or 1 thousandth of a second.
the human brain can't tell the difference of a .001 of a second difference in sound. and since we are listening in stereo each ears will be receiving different sounds regardless. as it'* not mono...so what does it matter if it doesn't reach our ears at exactly the same time?

i guarantee if you set up a room, chair in the middle and two speakers in optimal equidistant from them selfs and the chair and had one speaker sending even .009 music/sounds behind another speaker playing a song/note/sounds no one would be able to tell the difference or which speaker was sending the sound slower or any difference whatsoever...

Time alignment it'* important in big amphitheaters and the such where you have thousands of feet between speakers and such.

the high end SQ HUs that win iasca don't have any time correction. it'* a marketting gimmick.




all i'm saying is you guys need to clean up this thread BIG TIME.
i advise using this website as i guide before anyone posts anything: http://www.bcae1.com/

i know how you all hate inaccuracy and this thread is FULL of it. i'm guessing on the next page i'll hear about how great capacitors are.

i just got a rockford 10'' sub and a amp that pushes out 600 watts....is that bad for now? im pretty new with all this so please help..

You might say the science behind it is BS, and you might be right, however in my current car, a 99 camaro, with no delay set, all the vocals are glued to the left speaker, with a delay set, the image is centered, so when it comes to the application, it works. I cant attest to that statement in a bonneville anymore, because i havent had one for 2 years, but in my camaro, it works. If someone doesnt want to buy an HU, they can try phase tuning, which is to just reverse the speaker leads on each speaker and see what sounds better. IF you want more specifics, just look up phase tuning