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Old 03-07-2010, 12:08 PM   #1
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Default Amplifier and Capacitor problems

Ok. So yeah, I know it'* a budget system for amp and cap, but I bought a 4000w 2 channel Lanzar amp a few months ago, and everything was working just fine and dandy. Lights were dimming QUITE a bit, and I could literally sit and watch my battery gauge drop drastically every time the bass hit, so I decided to buy a cap. Bought another budget item, with a Boss Audio CAP10, a 10 farad.

I knew how to install the cap, with the distribution blocks and all that, and I knew I had to connect the power wire LAST, and to do only after charging the cap. Well, story of my life, I got a little bit ahead of myself, and tried charging the cap without realizing that I hadn't yet connected the trigger wire.

Now, the cap won't do a damned thing no matter what I try, no lights, nothing, and my amp won't do anything else either. I'm driving around town with no bump in my trunk, and I realllyyyyy don't like it lol.

The only time ANY of the lights on my amp come on are when I connect everything together, cap and all, like it should be, but then it only shows the red LED for protection mode. When I wire it all just straight up from the battery like I WAS doing, with no cap, there'* absolutely nothing happening with the amp.

Any ideas on what I did to my amp, and how I could fix it? I already checked all the fuses, and all of them are perfectly fine. I would hate to have to buy another amp and another cap. The reason I bought budget in the first place is because McDonald'* doesn't pay me much, and I don't get many hours to begin with lol. Took me almost a month and a half to save up the total of the $225 I spent on the amp and cap alone the first time.

Last edited by Kontagion; 03-07-2010 at 12:11 PM. Reason: spelling errors... =\
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Old 03-16-2010, 09:03 PM   #2
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have you checked the remote/accessory power wire
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Old 03-17-2010, 05:47 PM   #3
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Originally Posted by Gabe View Post
have you checked the remote/accessory power wire
I checked every wire multiple times. There was nothing wrong anywhere.

Now I have a new amp and a new cap, and everything is installed and working like it should be, EXCEPT, the cap isn't doing what it should be. Lights up and shows the voltage running through it like it should, but my battery is still draining like before. Jut not as fast and not as far as it was. I'm just gonna save up the money for a new 140 amp alternator and a yellow top before I add more subs to it.
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Old 03-18-2010, 12:02 PM   #4
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I have a yellow top and still notice the voltage drop. I do not think Pontiac had high power output in mind when designing the voltage regulator for these cars. What sort of capacitor did you get? I am going to be throwing in a hybrid capacitor into mine.
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Old 03-18-2010, 04:05 PM   #5
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Did you check all the fuses? the inline and the ones at the amp

Edit: just saw you already checked, my bad

Sounds like something in the amp might be blown, I forget what they are called but they are what gets mounted to the heat sink, one of my buddies blew a few of those and it just went into protection mode
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Old 03-18-2010, 10:25 PM   #6
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I have a yellow top and still notice the voltage drop. I do not think Pontiac had high power output in mind when designing the voltage regulator for these cars. What sort of capacitor did you get? I am going to be throwing in a hybrid capacitor into mine.
I Put a Boss Audio Cap10 into it.
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Old 03-30-2010, 08:28 PM   #7
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Forget the cap. Waste of money. If you're really trying to stop voltage drop, start with making sure you're not clipping (turn bass boost off, set gain appropriately). I'm running a 1200+ watt sub amp and a 200+ watt mids and highs amp and I get hardly any voltage drop at all (those are real wattage numbers, not peak). I have a totally stock electrical system (02 SSEi, factory battery under rear seat).

If you're really wanting to solve you voltage problems, start with getting a good main battery (XS power or similar) and then you can think about adding a 2nd battery, HO alternator, etc. if necessary.

As far as your problem, if you bypass the cap and hook your amp up directly to your battery and all you're getting is the protect light, it sounds like you smoked your amp. Be sure to check all your fuses and whatnot to make sure you haven't just popped a fuse or something.

Last edited by rmac694203; 03-31-2010 at 04:30 AM.
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Old 03-31-2010, 01:09 AM   #8
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flip your amp unside down and take off the bottom plate inspect the board. look for smoked resisters or ribbin wire on the board. if u did smoke your amp, u would be better off spending the same amount of money on smaller but better equipment. even though it says 4000watts. thats max in mono mode at 1ohm prolly and the cheap companies test there equipment at 15 volts. and the amp isnt high enough qualtity to do that for long and the sq suffers. i had a 4000 Volfenhaag amp and my 500watt PPI amp was so much more powerful and lasts forever. thats 500w at 12volts, so when ur car is pushing 15volts your actually pushing more like 600 true watts.
i think you just like saying "i got 4000 watts in my trunk" lol. put a high quality sub and amp in your car and itll be more dependable and sound better.

I had a PCX 2400 PPI amp and its only rated at 1600w. but that is real power. and i blew 2 12" Audiobahn Flame Q subs (they say they r 2200Watts each) in a sealed box with the gain under 1/4 the way up and bass boost off.
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Old 03-31-2010, 01:13 AM   #9
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check out SoundStream amps. about the same price as Lanzar but much better quality.
look for features to resist amp failure like.... soft turn on, cooling fans, overload protection
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