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Old 07-11-2007, 07:05 PM   #11
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OK, so the symptom is that the window is stuck in the down position. Do you hear a click when you push the switch to raise the window? Any other signs (noise, grinding, etc.) that the motor is actually working but the window is not raising?

If you just hear a faint click, try slamming the door closed with the switch pushed to raise the window, instead. If you hear other noises, the cable may be the problem, although that is unusual for the front windows.
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Old 07-11-2007, 07:36 PM   #12
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I tried the door slam. Didn't work. There isn't any sound at all.It is as if there isn't any power getting to switch.
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Old 07-11-2007, 07:50 PM   #13
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Check fuse #7 (DRVMDL) in the rear (under the rear seat) fuse box. If that is good, and as you're not hearing a click, you may have a bad driver'* door module.
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Old 07-12-2007, 05:56 PM   #14
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Good news. The window started working again. I started this afternoon to do some running around. I pushed the button forward and the window went up. I tried the "botton up slam the door" trick but didn't seem to work at the time. I don't know.
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Old 07-12-2007, 08:47 PM   #15
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Great! Typical for the front windows. They bind up mechanically, and most times, a good jolt will get the moving again. Otherwise, you have to pull the door panel, remove the door module and water deflector to get at the motor. Then remove the 3 bolts holding that in, which releases the pressure. It'* a good idea to lube things up while things are apart. Glad to hear that you didn't have to go through all of that.
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Old 07-14-2007, 06:43 PM   #16
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It'* me again. Drivers side front window started working. Now left passenger side won't work. Different problem tho. This time there is a real problem. The motor is working but the window does not go up.
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Old 07-14-2007, 06:49 PM   #17
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You get to have all the luck. That is the typical rear window regulator failure. If you are going to try the repair that Gumball linked you to above, and I'll put here too, do not try to activate it too many times, or you'll make a mess of the cabling. I've done 5 of them with great success, even some where the cabling was pretty bad.
http://www.bonnevilleclub.com/forum/...e=article&k=97
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Old 07-14-2007, 07:58 PM   #18
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I went on Ebay and found the regulator I need.It is from a company called Dormans. He says his is better than OEM. OEM is flawed. His words. Has anyone heard of him or his equipment?
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Old 07-14-2007, 08:32 PM   #19
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Yeah...they all say that theirs is better, and that they beefed up the weak parts. Looking at the pictures that have been provided in the past, I hadn't been able to see where any improvement was made, and in some cases used what appeared to be weaker parts. Have a link to it?

Edit - OK, I think that I found at least one place that is selling window regulators that are manufactured by Dorman. Based upon brand reputation, Dorman makes improved products over OEM - their upper intake manifolds for example. It is hard to tell just by looking at the picture, but the way it appears, where the cables are anchored (which is the weak spot) is exactly the same as the OEM. Where there does appear to be a difference, is with the motor (appears smaller) and the gearing (looks like plastic versus metal for the OEM) which is not where the problem lies.
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Old 07-15-2007, 12:44 AM   #20
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It took me like 25 minutes to fix mine and it sounds like the same exact problem your having. I just took the panel off and spun the motor a few times and played around with it. Its been working for 6 months now.
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