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Old 05-24-2007, 12:01 PM   #11
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Yes, my AutoEnginuity scanner will read them also, but a general code reader such as is used by Autozone, etc. will only read the "P" codes. Let'* try to keep this on topic of fixing their problem.
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Old 05-27-2007, 10:58 AM   #12
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Victim here <raising hand>... I had the same exact thing happen to me... the lights would come on only after going over rough terrain....eventually, they would come on as soon as the car started...intermittantly, of course. Finally, the abs would kick on for no reasonable reason.

I didn't bother scanning it, after talking with my brother who works for an auto parts distributor... they sell a TON of new wheel bearings (hubs). I had both front hubs replaced last weekend at NEBF... problem is gone. This is an expensive fix if you go to a garage... Brianj spent $450 to have both done. Cost of the bearings alone are $115 (made in China) - $230 (made in USA) each in my area.

Because of the cost, it may be wise to have it scanned to see which one is acting up. I opted to replace both since I had access to members willing to do the work for me.
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Old 05-27-2007, 01:37 PM   #13
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All of these answers are going the hard way and confusing. The solution is easy ...find which wheel bearing is bad and replace it. Problem solved. Original equipment is more reliable than rebuild parts typically.
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Old 05-27-2007, 02:04 PM   #14
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yeah well back at home (3hours away), we have a shop back there that basically only charges for the parts and labor is free. So i just might get both replaced.
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Old 05-27-2007, 05:19 PM   #15
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Ok, everyone else is probably right, but I can think of one other option that could cause this. Check your ABS connections at your rear wheels. If they were lose- they could have been disconnected as they rattled over bumps. They would trigger traction and brake lights- although I could be off on the thinking they trigger the exact two you are talking about.

I know this because I accidently disconnected one when I did my rear brakes once- and when i got back in the traction control wouldn't come on, brake and traction control lights were on. Might just need to be clicked in place. I could be wrong.
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Old 05-27-2007, 08:14 PM   #16
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I was wondering if anyone had a picture of where that sensor is on the HUB..
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Old 05-27-2007, 10:20 PM   #17
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Here'* how to replace the front hub which shows the wiring for the speed sensor. As I stated way back when...check the wiring and connections first. The rear hub will have similar connections.
Wheel Bearing/Hub Replacement - Front
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Old 05-27-2007, 10:28 PM   #18
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ok thanks, I'll have to check the connections tomorrow.
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Old 05-29-2007, 12:27 AM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by singscountry1967
Victim here <raising hand>... I had the same exact thing happen to me... the lights would come on only after going over rough terrain....eventually, they would come on as soon as the car started...intermittantly, of course. Finally, the abs would kick on for no reasonable reason.

Brianj spent $450 to have both done. Cost of the bearings alone are $115 (made in China) - $230 (made in USA) each in my area.
Ahem! That was for ONE side not both! After watching Don and Boosty change Tracy'* at NEBF I'd say even a layman like me could do the switch....as a matter of fact if my pass side goes I'll be the one changing it this time saving me at least $300! Look at the pics I posted in Your Ride of NEBF of the work being done on Tracy'* car. http://www.bonnevilleclub.com/forum/...r=asc&start=80
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