ill check with my buddy in the morning but there is a valve problem in the valve body and there is a udated valve to cure the torque convertor locking up and staying that way, mine is doing the same thing and its going in to get fixed under gmpp warranty, they said they werent sure what would cause it till ipointed the problem and the tsb out to them, figures, ill post it tomorrow and give everyone a heads up,
like i said previously i had my customers car to a local tranny shop and they wanted 900 to fix , the updated valve was if i recall like 100. thye said its a nightmare for labor
i knew better and called another local shop, he said 3 hours tops, but i couldnt get the valve quick enough to make my customer happy.

so i bought a new valve body from gm, wit the update and had it installed
total cost 600.00

now is that a no brainer, i really dispise trans shops they all seem to rake everyone through the coals and im a local independent dealer, good thing i do a lot of the mech work and checked the book for time

they were trying to sell me on a complete rebuild time saying it was very difficult do the job yeah right

If there really is something that would have fixed it, I wish I had known that 2 years ago when the warranty went. They tried several times over the course of the first year we had it and did replace a part, but I have forgotten now what it was. It helped, but nothing got rid of it.

some guys will replace tthe torque convertor lock up switch, that may make it somewhat better for ahile but its in the trans valvle body itself

sounds scary about the valve body but a good honest mechanic will tell you its not that big of a deal, my customer has been happy ever since and its perfect, like i said ill post the problem and the valve body update for all here tommorrow

Torque converter lock up switch...that'* it...that is what they said they replaced. Thanks for clearing up the mystery.

alot of guys talk about a rusty coil or plugs or wires. if you have a good scan tool you can watch all the cylinders and see any misfire anywhere, if you do on one cylinder go with wires or plugs, two cylinders its probably a coil

if more its fuel realted . pump or injectors

now im not ase certified but in 15 years it seems the basics have goes to the wayside.

still the 3800 blows all the v6 engines away for reliablility

Well, I don't have a scan tool, but I'm thinking it is time to do the plugs and wires anyway (almost 90,000 miles on the original ones). If I still have an issue though, I am going to have to get my hands on one.

How much does a good scan tool run?

Got a laptop? If so look at Digimoto or Autotap.

Otherwise, look at the Actron CP9145. I think they're about 300. Do NOT get a simple code-reader. You need more capability than that.

BTW folks, the TC stumbling/chuggle problem is much more apparent and prevalent on the 4T65E than the 4T60. The TCC solonoid design (from my understanding) is the typical culprit IF the problem is properly diagnosed.

The 4T65E typically sees these problems at half the mileage of the 4T60E. But do be aware that a simple ignition problem can, and sometimes does, fool people.

Thanks, I just might buy a scanner if the guys at the tranny shop don't pick anything up... of course, that would be after I get the injectors cleaned, new cables and plugs.

By the way, today I noticed my bonnie stuttering on take off.... I would step on the gas moderately and the car would stutter. Soon after that I felt the kick of the gears shifting in and out.

Is this related on non-related to the 35 - 50 mph issue? Anyone else feeling this from their cars?

I was told I did have a torn boot on the tranny side of the CV joint... could this be a factor?