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Old 10-24-2005, 09:37 PM   #91
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You could try to drill out the bolt and use an easy out reverse thread tap.
I would be cheaper to try that first. Probably need a 1/4" size easy out. An industrial hardware store could help you out.
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Old 10-24-2005, 11:23 PM   #92
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yeah, I thought about the bolt extractor idea, even gave it a try. I drilled out the center, pounded the extractor in like the directions said, and sho' nuff....it broke off too. I'm thinking that I can live with 2 out of 3 bolts until it'* time for new front stuts. I don't have the tools or experience to pull the strut myself and replace the mount, but I'll keep asking around. In theory it shouldn't be that hard and I think autozone rents everything I'd need. I'll have to read up on it.
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Old 10-24-2005, 11:49 PM   #93
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Have you tried getting a bolt welded to the broken bolt. If you heated the broken piece with a torch until it smokes, it would have helped. The welding operation usually frees up the bolt so it'* easy to remove. Make sure it cools very slowly so the weld is not as brittle.

Even if you try the screw driver idea, heating it up first is highly recommended.
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Old 10-25-2005, 06:06 PM   #94
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I called around for the strut mount and found a place that has one for around $50. The dealer wanted $130. I'll work on it some more tonight and see if I can't back the broken bolt out, but at this point I'm pretty much expecting to have to replace the strut mount.
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Old 10-27-2005, 08:02 PM   #95
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Seriously, having snapped off bolt heads *and* the easy-out, as you have, I can vouch that one of the best solutions is to go to any welder and have them tack weld a nut onto the bolt so you can get the bolt out. Use plenty of penetrating oil and let it work in before undoing it. Really, any machine shop would have your bolt out in about 5 minutes.
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Old 10-28-2005, 01:31 AM   #96
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I'm going to be visiting a few machine shops anyway to have some aluminum turned for my solid motor mount, I'll ask if they'll do that too. Best price I found for replacing the mount was $160 and the kid sounded new. Average price was about $200. Surely welding a bolt onto the remnants will cost less than that!
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Old 02-03-2006, 12:09 AM   #97
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i tried ordering part# 25768515 for the brace.......they call it a bumper cover and want to charge $28 for shipping...WTF???
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Old 02-03-2006, 07:59 PM   #98
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kshef
i tried ordering part# 25768515 for the brace.......they call it a bumper cover and want to charge $28 for shipping...WTF???
Are you sure you didn't mistype the part number? The numbers are:

25768516 - BAR
10360987 - BRACKET
25768515 - BRACKET

Both PartsZoneOnline and GMPartsDirect show 25768515 as a bracket, although the 25768515 shows up in a category of Front bumper covers, but the item itself is a bracket. A quick visit to your friendly dealer should clarify the situation if you're concerned about it. I ordered mine from PartsZoneOnline and the description for both brackets is "F-Bracket" and the bar as "F-Bar". Check with your local dealer, but my gut says you're good to go.
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Old 02-03-2006, 10:15 PM   #99
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http://www.bonnevilleclub.com/forum/...r=asc&start=40

Those numbers should be right.
You can see the difference between our L67 motors and the Northstar when it comes to bar clearance. You may have to bend the brackets slightly to allow more clearance between the bar and the alternator.
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Old 02-03-2006, 11:03 PM   #100
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2000SilverBullet
You may have to bend the brackets slightly to allow more clearance between the bar and the alternator.
Mine is going in this weekend!!! Rather then bending the brackets I'm going to try to shim up the bracket at the inside-most bolts with some washers. I bought some longer bolts to use to compensate for the extra thickness. By all accounts I shouldn't need to shim it up much so a washer or two on each side should be enough to ensure some clearance. I'll let you know how it works out and if anyone can think of a reason not to go this route, drop me a line.
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