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Old 03-14-2008, 05:38 PM   #21
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Originally Posted by Archon
Before doing anything with the crank sensor, other than perhaps checking with a scanner, check out the electrical connections. This is the last page of the thread by 2000SilverBullet that PDad mentioned, that shows the solution to his problem. It'* a good place to start. You may want to skim the thread to see the symptoms.

Also check the positive connection, under the red cover, to the underhood fuse box, as well as the 3 bolts that hold it down. Then, work to the under seat fuse box, and check the connections there. You may want to take the connections apart, clean them, and reconnect with dielectric grease. One thing to pay close attention to is where the negative battery cable attaches to the floor pan under the seat. Take that apart, clean the bolt and thread in the floor real well, and reconnect after applying dielectric grease.
I read that post and honestly nothing sounded similar to what mine is doing. When I get home I will check the connections ect. anything else will have to wait until I have help. I am completely clueless about all of this stuff. I appreciate you all helping me out.
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Old 03-14-2008, 09:27 PM   #22
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If you have more questions, or need clarification, just let us know.
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Old 03-15-2008, 02:02 AM   #23
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fbody - I sent you a private message. Just send me a link to one thread on this forum where an OBDII car wasn't sparking or starting & threw a crank code. Please send as a PM so we can keep this thread on track. After our 'debate' we can post the results here.

idkaac - We learn new things here just about every day. Your case is unique due to the erratic spark. It seems like everyone else has either had spark or not.

To the best of my knowledge these are all the things required for spark.
Power & ground to the ICM.
Crank Sensor
Wiring between the cam/crank sensor & ICM
Spark Plugs

Hopefully one of your friends has a voltmeter. The ICM is located under the coils. Loosen the bolt on the wiring harness with a 7mm socket & pull the harness away from ICM. The wire closest to the passenger side is pink & delivers battery power to the ICM. The 5th wire over(four from pink wire) is the ground, its a black with white stripe wire. Connect the red meter lead to the terminals on the pink wire. Connect the black meter lead to the terminals of the black/white wire. With the key on there should be 12 -13 volts. Now see how much the voltage drops when the engine is cranked for 5 seconds. With a good battery I wouldn't expect the voltage to drop below 11. Make sure hands, clothing, meter leads, etc are away from fans, belts & pulleys when doing these tests. If the voltage drops below 11 try swapping batteries.

The wiring usually isn't a problem unless it'* been damaged by a thrown fan belt.

I don't know what method you used to check for spark but if we check right at the coils we can quickly rule out plugs & wires. Simply remove both spark plug wires from the coils & crank over the engine. You should get a nice blue spark between the coil posts.

Well unless you have a bad battery I expect to be back to the crank sensor or ICM which we already covered. Let us know what you find.
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