Alright Brethren, I know this is an Old topic, through the forums I have read, several posts/topics only to find that everybody'* problem is unique. I read one guy AAScreen that have been having repeated ICM and Coil Failure and Replacement and Can't seem to figure out what'* the root cause. Well anyway I sort of have the same problem, I have 2 S2 3800 Engines and I have had enough troubles with them regarding this misfire, Coil Pack and ICM issues. The one in My Impala Keep Frying ICMs while The one in My Bonnie Just keep blowing Coil Packs. I Just replaced 2 Coil packs not too long ago and it started misfiring again pointing towards Cyl#3, Then one very cold Morning, It refused to start at all. And stayed that way for about 2 Months till the weather got better and I was able to charge up the battery and try diagnosing the problem. Luckily for Me I have to Spark testers, I Just Plugged them both on the oldest coil pack and what happened next was Miraculous. The car started Right Up after sitting for several Months!! And I was Like 💃💃💃 and then 🤔🤔🤔. Then as I got out I heard some arcing and it was from the 2 Spark testers, they were close to each other, Sparks were Jumping across each other, and As immediately separated them, the car died. I was Like Hmmmm 🤔😬🤔😬, that'* weird. I put'em together again, car started, Then, I immediately knew the problem is with that Could pack. I went and grabbed one off My Impala and threw it on there and It started right up. So I figured I'd check the Bad coil pack to see if it was out of Resistance Spec and it checks out Primary Side 0.8 Ohm, Secondary 5.6K Ohms. So, at this point I'm like WTF!?! Why is it reading correct specs but won't work. Well, I went online, Only place I knew I could find info. I read that their readings are different when Hot & Cold. But, The dang thing made the car not even start in the first place, let alone it getting Hot. Then there is a TECHINFO Stuff Somewhere that could help but, I can't find it...

But anyway, w/o making this too long, I wanted to ask/know WHAT'* THE DEAL WITH THER RESISTANCE READINGS BEING WITHIN SPEC, BUT THE COIL PACK NO GOOD??? There'* no Cracks on the Coil pack. I read where someone said something about the epoxy inside the Coil pack could melt and cause a problem of it'* own. Is there another way, A Nee/better test to find out why they act strange this way?? Someone please shed some light on this for Me.
Thanks.

Well, I Hope the 1st thread gets deleted, I don't know how to delete it, I was trying to make a correction on the post and Can't find where or how to do it. Any help on that too?

I removed your other post. We turned off the editing feature to protect information here on the forum. It'* preferred if you need to update information, just make another post the current thread.

I can tell you what was wrong with your coil. The insulation is getting a weak spot and the wire is yet intact but when the coil is triggered the EMF generated feeds back into the ICM and it can cause the ICM to not fire or it can even destroy the ICM. Until the insulation degrades to the point the wiring shorts the resistance tests are of little use.

I See, That makes sense. So there'* no other solution than to keep changing/throwing Coil packs at it?

When we see returns for multiple failures of the same component(*) we look at wiring integrity to the circuits and usually find an issue with either the wiring being frayed or bad connectors and or grounds.

Also, any capacitors or filters used in the system gets replaced. These can cause premature failure in the electronics including even the PCM in some models.

Ok, So what Wire(*) should I be investigating? I Just replaced the ICM not too long before One of the coil packs went out. What Capacitor(*) or Filters should I be concerned with?
Although I think I might've caught a big fish problem that I was having.. My Cyl#6 Spark plug wire was cut in half, was only held by a single outer thread the inside wire was Black. Because it had been misfiring mildly and I couldn't make out why or where it was coming from. I Found that out after I changed the Coil pack later on today and Walked away from the car as it was idling, I heard something that sounded like arcing, but when I came close to the car or in front of the engine I won't hear it, So I Put My Ears closer over the engine, at first I thought it was the valves, but a closer listen I could hear arcing over the 3 rear Spark plugs wires, I separated them and listened closer and it was the #6, Pulled it and Found the 2 halves dangling holding on to it'* dear life by a thread. Changed that wire with a Better quality wire I had and the Engine is Running Buttery Smooth again.

But, I still can't I understand why the Coil Packs keep getting roasted. I Know the Excessive amount of heat being generated b/w & around the ICM and Spark Plugs are partly If Not Soley to be Blamed...

You should have good plugs and wires as they are the first things that needs to be replaced. The high loads required when the wires and plugs are bad will stress the system and cause premature failure of electronic components.