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Old 03-07-2010, 01:29 PM   #31
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what is the torque spec on the alxe nut?

When I changed the HUBS it was in the instructions

C
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Old 03-07-2010, 09:25 PM   #32
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More progress today. Engine prep including plugs and new water pump.

Found something interesting when I removed the old water pump. First rust....but the pump was FULL of a "foam goo". Most was in the pump area and in the inlet area of the front bank. As I cleaned I observed that it didn't extend back into the block further than a half inch behind the pump. What is this...?

Had to replace the return heater hose (destroyed the old one ) and replaced the passenger side axle seal. Boy was that fun!!

Won't get the thing set in till next weekend....and still need to address the starter issue.....Have a forum option if I can't locate the solenoid locally. Got a lead on a place that moght have one.

Can't wait to get this thing back on the road....
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Old 03-07-2010, 09:35 PM   #33
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I think it'* 108 foot pounds.

Did you have Dex-cool? If air gets in the system it can foam up.
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Old 03-07-2010, 10:16 PM   #34
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I wondered if it was a dex cool issue. This is the JY motor I am prepping to install.

I won't be using dex cool.....

Don't really know how long the motor sat before I got it......but several months at least.

Glad I opted to change the pump.....I have in every JY motor I have ever used...

I will probably use water and a system flush first ..... drain after a a bit .....then refill with AF
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Old 03-13-2010, 09:05 PM   #35
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New motor is in and the only sensor I failed to inspect is broken......KNOCK SENSOR......I got it loose but there isn';t enough room to get it out between the engine and trans.

I will now try to take the shield looseand see if there is enough room....

If I would have checked it this damn thing would be close to running!!!!

SHEEESH

any ideas?

OH and the anti freeze bath was fun too.

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Old 03-13-2010, 09:09 PM   #36
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You should be able to get up there with a socket. Drain the coolant first, it will drain out when you remove the knock sensor.
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Old 03-13-2010, 11:11 PM   #37
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Well.....I got it out!!!

In car knock sensor removal

After loosening the shield.....and poking around for a bit ....I discovered that you can slide it toward the passenger side between the engine and trans and it will come out.

I don't know if I could have done this without removing the shield but you don't (or shouldn't) try to remove the bolts holding the shield completely as the bolt holes are slotted and would probably be a royal pain to restart.

The sensor is a 7/8" and a deep well is too long. I used a standard 12 point 1/2' drive to remove the broken one. If the motor was out of the car a deep well would be fine. But to replace with a new one I believe you run the risk of breaking it.

I am going to try to find a medium length in 3/8" drive and hope it fits with a swivel so I don't risk damaging it as I tighten it back up.

This job is NO FUN.

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Old 03-13-2010, 11:23 PM   #38
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I do believe that is a 22mm socket.
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Old 03-13-2010, 11:32 PM   #39
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Danthurs View Post
I do believe that is a 22mm socket.
7/8" 22mm....whatever it takes
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Old 03-13-2010, 11:48 PM   #40
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nomad61 View Post
7/8" 22mm....whatever it takes
Did you try a left handed metric crescent wrench?
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