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Old 02-27-2010, 11:44 PM   #21
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That'* a shame. Would have been nice to have a spare starter. Just want to make sure you have everything unbolted. I'm trying to think what'* all needed. On the trans side there should be 2 bolts on top, the backwards bolt in back, and 2 more down the front. the lower front is different and is one of the bolts holding the trans mount on. There'* the bracket behind the power steering pump that connects the trans to the engine. There the right side engine mount. That'* all the holds the engine in place. Ply a little at the trans to split, then lift out. After the fuel lines and wiring harness is out of the way.
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Old 02-28-2010, 12:44 AM   #22
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Thanks for your continued assistance here. I will continue the process tomorrow.

I still have to get the exhaust apart....and hope the studs come out easily. plus the crossover.
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Old 02-28-2010, 12:47 AM   #23
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Lots of penetrating oil.
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Old 02-28-2010, 10:56 PM   #24
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Please.. don't remove the exhaust. That'* the hardest of the hard ways to do the job.

To remove the engine

Pre-removal:
- obtain 4 foot extension
- drain oil
- drain coolant
- Have oil absorbent on hand 40lbs bag at parts store is usually $5
- obtain cherry picker and some chain


1. Do not drink, unhook battery
2. Disconnect FWI from motor, disconnect coolant hoses.
3. Start on top of car disconnecting all electrical to the motor only. Leave PCM/trans intact.
Injectors,Map, Maf, IAC, TP, alt, ground packs that go to engine, big connector on fuel rail by coil pack (do not disconnect crank and cam sensors or coil connector., that stays), evap.
4. Unhook fuel lines to rail, tuck under wiper arm.
5. Remove Alternator and it'* tensioner bracket assembly and bracket to SC from alt. 10mm, 13mm, 15mm
6. Jack car, remove passenger tire. Crawl under front unhook electrical from starter, ac, knock sensor and oil level sensor. 8mm, 13mm, 19mm and pick
7. Crawl further under and unbolt two exhaust bolts from downpipe to manifold.
Front
8. Remove flex shield, starter, and remove starter, unbolt flex to TC bolts through hole for starter. Rotate crank by HB bolt as needed. 10mm, 15mm, 18mm, 27mm
Pass Side
9. Unbolt The AC Compressor, lay it on front subframe 15mm
10. Undo wire look clipped to ps pump. (easier before you unbolt pump) Unbolt the Power steering Pump, tie it up (through hole in pulley) to something up top for better room at oil pressure sensor etc. 13mm, zip ties
11. Disconnect oil press, VSS, ground if applicable, rear knock sensor (KS has a pig tail that should be a single wire connector near the oil press wires, not at the KS sensor). Remove oil press sens.
12 Remove trans to engine bracket 13mm
13. Remove reverse trans bolt. 18mm, 4 feet of extension
Top
14. Remove fuel rail and SC. 10mm, 13mm
15. Unneeded step to edit out later
16. Unbolt 2 of the 4 engine to tansmission bolts and break the other two free. 18mm
17, Bolt chain to end of front ds head and rear pass head. On end where the alt bracket was located and by thermostat.
18 Put floor jack on front subframe at center of car.
19. Position hoist and hook to chain (leave room to work floor jack.) Putting very light pressure on the chain..lighter you potatohead!
Side
20. Unbolt the main engine bracket to frame. It is about a 27mm bolt that holds the bracket from the engine to the body. Straight up through the A-arm with an extension is easiest. Don't be surprised if it seems loose. Expect the motor to come down 1/2-1 full inch, if not..lower motor 1-2 inches. ~27mm
21. Remove three bolts holding the bracket to the engine/oil pan. One is down and back of water pump, the other two are on the lower side of the oil pan. 13mm, 15mm (ratcheting wrenches will keep you sane)
22. Reattach wheel. 19mm
23. Unlatch hood struts so hood can go farther up. Pool stick/broom handle is a great support.
24. Remove last two engine to trans bolts. 18mm
25 Jack motor a little and pull to passenger side in order to seperate from trans..(too much jacking or pressure will make this harder.
26. Guide motor slowly out of engine bay checking for stragler wires or items..
27. Jack car slightly to slide lift out from under subframe.
28. Put motor on garage floor.
New motor prep
29. Remove rear exhaust manifold, flywheel and all engine pull brackets from new motor.
30 Change any gaskets deemed necessary. It is 1 billion percent easier to do this out of the car.
31. Swap over oil pan, oil filter adapter and knock sensor pigtail, 10mm or 3/8", 13mm
32. Look at two motors side by side as comparison swap any straggler parts. Like rear exhaust manifold/flywheel etc etc.
33. Climb into engine bay. Wiggle, push and rotate converter to ensure it is all the way in and didn't slip out when pulling motor. Orientate so that one bolt hole is in starter area.
34. Reinstall reverse of removal. Use an 18mm shallow socket to install the reverse trans bolt.

Get it in and running. Change oil after 15 minutes of running to get any gasket crap or dirt out of the motor.
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Old 03-07-2010, 12:45 AM   #25
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OK the motor is out. the passenger side axle seal at the trans is leaking and must be changed. And with the motor out it is very accessable. what is the easiest way to pull the axle enough to replace the seal?

I searched and can't find a solenoid to replace the broken one on my starter. even the dealer doesn't have one. best price and a complete new starter....$142 plus taxes. ARRGH

Know anywhere I can pick up JUST a new solenoid?

Tomorrow I will swap over all the old parts.....add the new and try to get the motor dropped back in.'

I can see the light at the end of the tunnel.

This has been a BIT of work....but I know it will be worth it.

C
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Old 03-07-2010, 08:06 AM   #26
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To remove the axle, remove the axle nut, but not all the way. Hit with a hammer to loose it and slide in. remove the castle nut on the lower ball joint, Use a long bar to push the control arm down off the ball joint. Axle will slide in. Push axle all the way in. Use a piece of wood to pry the axle out of the diff. Don't just pull.
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Old 03-07-2010, 10:09 AM   #27
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Thought I might be able to get enough room by pulling the two top bolts on top connecting it to the strut?

Caliper and rotor can stay attached in your example?

C
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Old 03-07-2010, 10:23 AM   #28
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Yep, no need to remove any of that stuff. But it will take a bit to push the lower control arm down.
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Old 03-07-2010, 12:33 PM   #29
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Any store that sells a starter also sells a solenoid. It'll run you about $20. Replacement should be fairly straightforward:

1.) Remove starter from car.
2.) Disconnect the strap from the solenoid to the starter motor terminal.
3.) Remove the screws that secure the solenoid to the starter motor.
4.) Twist the solenoid in a clockwise direction to disengage the flange from the starter body.

Reverse to reinstall.
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Old 03-07-2010, 01:27 PM   #30
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Napa and Advanced don't carry it......or even have a part number. So I went to Chevy/GM guy there said they have not been a servicable part since 98 on those starters.
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