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2000-2005 Discuss your 2000-2005 Bonneville SE, SLE, and SSEi Please use General Chat for non-mechanical issues, and Performance and Brainstorming for improvements.

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Old 02-10-2014, 01:06 PM   #21
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you dont have to take it all apart to test it just take the little bolt out of the connector so you can get you meter leads in there
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Old 02-10-2014, 03:23 PM   #22
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This is the connector, I circled the bolt for you, once you remove that you can get to the leads of the connector.
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Old 02-10-2014, 03:50 PM   #23
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Thank you for the information, now if it just warms up a bit I will be able to check what'* wrong.
Jim
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Old 02-10-2014, 10:55 PM   #24
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Good luck, let us know how the test goes.
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Old 04-03-2014, 01:07 PM   #25
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Finally warmed up last weekend so I checked the crank sensor and it was good. Pulled the front three plugs and they were wet, so I must be getting gas. Rechecked for spark on the middle cylinder and I have spark. Oil shows as overfilled and smells of gas. Cleaned the plugs and put them back in still no start. I get gas at the check valve. Any suggestions?
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Old 04-03-2014, 03:05 PM   #26
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Get yourself an inline spark plug tester to check for spark. You have fuel and its fouling the spark plug out and goin past the rings into the crankcase. And depending on the quality of your plugs, your may be in for a new set.
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Old 04-03-2014, 03:35 PM   #27
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I'm off to Harbor Freight to buy an inline spark checker. Is there a test for a fuel regulator?
Thanks for your suggestions.
Jim
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Old 04-03-2014, 05:43 PM   #28
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the easiest check is smell the vacuum line for fuel if its present its bad. beyond that you need a fuel pressure gauge
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Old 04-04-2014, 02:17 PM   #29
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holy crap....if oil looks overfilled and smells of gas, dump that oil and the oil filter, before you do anything else.......

When you check for spark, disable the injectors by removing the injector fuse in underhood fuse block.....you may have to replace those plugs if you have spark.....they were fouled.....sometimes cleaning/drying is not enough....
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Old 04-04-2014, 02:47 PM   #30
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For some reason, I could not edit my post, so:

holy crap....if oil looks overfilled and smells of gas, dump that oil and the oil filter, before you do anything else.......

When you check for spark, disable the injectors by removing the injector fuse in underhood fuse block.....you may have to replace those plugs if you have spark.....they were fouled.....sometimes cleaning/drying is not enough....but with only 4K on them(hopefully OEM'*), they should clean up ok......

The guys are a little worried about losing coolant......but I think by 2001, they had the revised upper plenum/lower intake, in the engine....

As mentioned, a squirt at the schraeder valve does not mean you have enough fuel pressure......need to test with a fuel pressure gauge.....should be greater than 45 psi and hold(cycle key several times, waiting 5 seconds in between, to get max pressure)......

So, do an oil change.....remove all plugs and clean/dry them(recheck gaps), reinstall....remove the injector fuse......do your spark test with the spark tester on each cylinder.....

If you have spark on all cylinders, remove vac line to f/p regulator and smell for fuel in the line.....if none, plug the vac line(I have a bunch of golf tees since I quit golfing).....disconnect MAF sensor.....Remove the snorkel to the throttle body....have someone crank the car while you spray carb cleaner at the throttle plate(don't have to open plate it will get sucked in)......ambient temp should be above freezing when doing this....if the car starts and runs as long as you spray, you know it'* a fuel delivery problem.....stop cranking.....reconnect the MAF.....have someone crank again while you spray the carb cleaner....if it doesn't start and run, stop......disconnect MAF......try again, if it starts, you have a MAF problem....

No spark at all, means a crank sensor or ICM......spark on one or two coils, mean a bad coil(*) or ICM.....

If one coil does not spark right, swap it with another......if the problem moves to another cylinder, bad coil.....if the problem stays at the same cylinder, bad ICM.....

Also watch that nipple on top of the f/p regulator while doing your testing/cranking....watch to see if fuel comes out of that nipple....when done testing reconnect the vac line to regulator....

Good luck with your testing.....and once again, dump that oil....
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