Pull off the master and secure it in a vise. Then you will need the nipples that screw into the brake line holes. You run tubes from the nipples to the reservoir fill the master up then take a shank, a punch, a big phillips, or something that you can use to push in the plunger at the rear of the master. Here is a pic.

And keep pushing in the plunger till there are no more bubbles or something?

Yes that is correct. I plugged mine off last night and filled the master in hopes not to have to do it. when you get done could you at least PM me some pics of the bends up front and tell me how you snaked the lines through? I had a rough time getting the lines out let alone the fact that I have to bend the new ones back up Thanks John.

I spliced to keep all the new lines local to the prop valves. Sorry.

But, uh, what should I do about a snapped off bleeder valve? A rear one snapped off without much effort. I tried my screw-outs and couldn't get it to bite, I notched the stub with my Dremel and can't get it to budge with a screw driver.

What do I do?

wheel cylinders are only like 10 bucks. and i know youve already spent almost 130, but if you have tried a screw extractor, it may be worth 10 bucks to save any more headache.

^^^ Screw that. ^^^ I'm retracting my retraction! Son was on his way to a store this afternoon when 2 kids ran across the street in front of him. He slams on the brakes & the kids were untouched but right after that he realized the brakes were going to the floor. So he comes home & tells me what happened & that the brake fluid leaked out from a line.

Of course I'm thinking that now I get to see this for myself. We go for a short drive & with my left foot hovering over the emergency brake, take it up to about 20 mph & try the brakes. The pedal seems to go all the way to the floor but the car does slow down. I take it up to 20 again & slam on the brakes & the car stops faster & the antilocks are even pulsating. It feels like you have less than half the braking power but the car will stop.

Not sure if anyone is going to agree with this but usually when I snap one I bleed it at the line going in. Just crack the line loose and tighten lightly then do the pumps and loosen the line and repeat. It has always worked for me.

I ended up cracking loose the line at the junction about a foot before the right rear (bleeder that broke - not the line that popped). I couldn't tell if any air was coming out, so I had my friend pump the brakes till lots of clean fluid came out without any sputtering then I tightened it down.

The test drive went ok. The pedal seems a little mushier than before. I'll try bleeding the fronts just to see if it helps later this week. At least I can drive it to work tomorrow.

Sounds good, and I am glad to hear that the job is complete. I am not looking forward to doing this tomorrow, and I pray that I dont snap a bleeder. You know I make sure that I even heat them up everytime now after snapping them so many times, but I have even snapped a hot one! I hate this northern rust

If I do have air in the master cylinder, how would I know? Can it work it'* own way out over time?