We've got a bleeder!! Need help. - Page 5 - GM Forum - Buick, Cadillac, Chev, Olds, GMC & Pontiac chat


1992-1999 Series I L27 (1992-1994 SE,SLE, SSE) & Series II L36 (1995-1999 SE, SSE, SLE) and common problems for the Series I and II L67 (all supercharged models 92-99) Including Olds 88's, Olds LSS's and Buick Lesabres Please use General Chat for non-mechanical issues, and Performance and Brainstorming for improvements.

Reply
 
 
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 04-20-2008, 04:46 PM   #41
Senior Member
Posts like a Northstar
 
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Waukesha, Wisconsin
Posts: 547
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Blownville is on a distinguished road
Default

Pull off the master and secure it in a vise. Then you will need the nipples that screw into the brake line holes. You run tubes from the nipples to the reservoir fill the master up then take a shank, a punch, a big phillips, or something that you can use to push in the plunger at the rear of the master. Here is a pic.


Name:  Masterbleeding.jpg
Views: 0
Size:  26.5 KB
Blownville is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-20-2008, 04:51 PM   #42
Senior Member
Certified Car Nut
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Mar 2003
Posts: 12,432
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
J Wikoff is on a distinguished road
Default

And keep pushing in the plunger till there are no more bubbles or something?
J Wikoff is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-20-2008, 04:56 PM   #43
Senior Member
Posts like a Northstar
 
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Waukesha, Wisconsin
Posts: 547
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Blownville is on a distinguished road
Default

Yes that is correct. I plugged mine off last night and filled the master in hopes not to have to do it. when you get done could you at least PM me some pics of the bends up front and tell me how you snaked the lines through? I had a rough time getting the lines out let alone the fact that I have to bend the new ones back up Thanks John.
Blownville is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-20-2008, 10:15 PM   #44
Senior Member
Certified Car Nut
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Mar 2003
Posts: 12,432
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
J Wikoff is on a distinguished road
Default

I spliced to keep all the new lines local to the prop valves. Sorry.

But, uh, what should I do about a snapped off bleeder valve? A rear one snapped off without much effort. I tried my screw-outs and couldn't get it to bite, I notched the stub with my Dremel and can't get it to budge with a screw driver.

What do I do?
J Wikoff is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-20-2008, 10:19 PM   #45
Senior Member
Certified GM nut
 
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: burb of detroit. 2 miles north of 8 mile Rd.
Posts: 2,028
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
samueljackson is on a distinguished road
Default

wheel cylinders are only like 10 bucks. and i know youve already spent almost 130, but if you have tried a screw extractor, it may be worth 10 bucks to save any more headache.
samueljackson is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-20-2008, 11:03 PM   #46
Senior Member
Certified GM nut
 
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Western New York
Posts: 1,942
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Technical Ted is on a distinguished road
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Technical Ted
I can't argue with the number of people that lost all brakes after breaking a line. It must have changed with anti-lock brakes. Good thing to know if you're driving around with rusty lines! Now I've got another job to do.
^^^ Screw that. ^^^ I'm retracting my retraction! Son was on his way to a store this afternoon when 2 kids ran across the street in front of him. He slams on the brakes & the kids were untouched but right after that he realized the brakes were going to the floor. So he comes home & tells me what happened & that the brake fluid leaked out from a line.

Of course I'm thinking that now I get to see this for myself. We go for a short drive & with my left foot hovering over the emergency brake, take it up to about 20 mph & try the brakes. The pedal seems to go all the way to the floor but the car does slow down. I take it up to 20 again & slam on the brakes & the car stops faster & the antilocks are even pulsating. It feels like you have less than half the braking power but the car will stop.
Technical Ted is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-20-2008, 11:37 PM   #47
Senior Member
Posts like a Northstar
 
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Waukesha, Wisconsin
Posts: 547
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Blownville is on a distinguished road
Default

Not sure if anyone is going to agree with this but usually when I snap one I bleed it at the line going in. Just crack the line loose and tighten lightly then do the pumps and loosen the line and repeat. It has always worked for me.
Blownville is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-21-2008, 12:22 AM   #48
Senior Member
Certified Car Nut
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Mar 2003
Posts: 12,432
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
J Wikoff is on a distinguished road
Default

I ended up cracking loose the line at the junction about a foot before the right rear (bleeder that broke - not the line that popped). I couldn't tell if any air was coming out, so I had my friend pump the brakes till lots of clean fluid came out without any sputtering then I tightened it down.

The test drive went ok. The pedal seems a little mushier than before. I'll try bleeding the fronts just to see if it helps later this week. At least I can drive it to work tomorrow.
J Wikoff is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-21-2008, 12:43 AM   #49
Senior Member
Posts like a Northstar
 
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Waukesha, Wisconsin
Posts: 547
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Blownville is on a distinguished road
Default

Sounds good, and I am glad to hear that the job is complete. I am not looking forward to doing this tomorrow, and I pray that I dont snap a bleeder. You know I make sure that I even heat them up everytime now after snapping them so many times, but I have even snapped a hot one! I hate this northern rust
Blownville is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-21-2008, 04:43 PM   #50
Senior Member
Certified Car Nut
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Mar 2003
Posts: 12,432
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
J Wikoff is on a distinguished road
Default

If I do have air in the master cylinder, how would I know? Can it work it'* own way out over time?
J Wikoff is offline   Reply With Quote
 
 
Reply

Related Topics
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
1994 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme 3.1L Coolant Bleeder Screw Broke Pontiacfanatik Oldsmobile 3 08-10-2011 07:36 AM
Brake Bleeder caps imidazol 1992-1999 1 05-11-2008 08:30 PM
got scan tool, still cant get codes need help jachin Everything Electrical & Electronic 7 02-03-2004 11:33 PM
Got subs! Need help... danpuzak Audio (and aftermarket electronics) 5 01-04-2004 11:05 AM
Got my tranny cooler today, but theres a problem, need help! h1081dan General GM Chat 10 11-11-2003 08:06 PM


Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off



All times are GMT -4. The time now is 02:48 AM.


We are a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for us to earn fees by linking to Amazon.com and affiliated sites.