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1992-1999 Series I L27 (1992-1994 SE,SLE, SSE) & Series II L36 (1995-1999 SE, SSE, SLE) and common problems for the Series I and II L67 (all supercharged models 92-99) Including Olds 88's, Olds LSS's and Buick Lesabres Please use General Chat for non-mechanical issues, and Performance and Brainstorming for improvements.

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Old 07-09-2007, 05:30 PM   #1
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i am on my second year with this 94 bonnie and you guys have helped me more than you know. I had poor performance issues and wrote and the answer was there as if by magic, my trunk release was not working from the button and bam coroded switch contacts again instant help, my power locks quit and you directed me to the wireing under the seat and BAM problem solved. i have had many other problems as well that i found answered by other people with similar problems like a */c rebuild that went flawlessly to diagnosing what i thought was an oil pump problem that turned out to be a spring behind the oilf filter adapter (THANK GOD FOR BILL BOOST!!) i just wanted to let you guys all know how much you have helped me out over the past 2 years, and to give you a heart felt thank you, one and all. Today i was on my way to work and it quit, several times and the gauges would go nuts i can hear relays clicking on and off under the hood and even the cooling fans come on and go off to the gauges... i looked here first and i think i have coroded connectors under the floor near the doorways. i had a sunroof drain spring a leak a year ago and the floors were full of water and im so confident i can get help here i dont even call for a tow lol i get a ride to a computer, print out your advice and go fix the damn thing! ill let you know if the coroded door sill wires are whats causing it to stall and the gauges to go crazy

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Old 07-09-2007, 05:40 PM   #2
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We aim to help.

Also check your battery cables. Any corrosion there can cause the same issues.
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Old 07-09-2007, 05:50 PM   #3
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yeah checked that before i started to hitch hike lol im pretty sure its the corrosion cause i did have so much water in there but why it took it a year and crops up on the hottest dryest day we have had ill never know! and you guys are a huge help and im sure you help a ton of folks like me that dont always post! the only problem i have not seen listed on here is my wipers blow a fuse everytime i shut them OFF they will run all day but when you turn them off the instant they hit the rest spot down under the cowl POP lol i have gotten to be an expert at putting the fuse in and taking it out when i drive lol
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Old 07-09-2007, 07:55 PM   #4
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Our 89 was clicking all the underhood relays & EGR valve last week. The problem ended up being the ECM. So if the grounds aren't the problem you might want to try a computer replacement before having it towed.
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Old 07-09-2007, 11:14 PM   #5
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What'* this..a 94..lol

That would be the third or fourth time today that gearheads suggested if all else fails.. it'* time to try and different PCM.

94 and 95 are known to be the worst years for pcm'*. Don't know why..but they have a high rate of failure.
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Old 07-10-2007, 03:20 PM   #6
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its weird lol the connections were coroded like a penny in a mud puddle i cleaned them and not sure why but the alarm went off when i plugged them back in on the passenger side but anyway it didnt seem to make a differance :( still stalls i can tell you this, when it stalls relays are kicking on and off and i know for sure the reason it stalls in part is the fuel pump shuts down.. but the cruise control (which was set on) controller thing that has the cables to hold the throttle, it clicks like crazy too! and now the gauges dont go nuts but when it starts to stall the ses, chargeing and traction control lights go crazy
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Old 07-10-2007, 03:30 PM   #7
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Which connections?

Battery cables or ground buss?
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Old 07-10-2007, 03:32 PM   #8
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the ground bus'* i cleaned them both under the door sill
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Old 07-10-2007, 03:33 PM   #9
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Ok.. have you already checked the battery cables at both ends of all cables recently?
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Old 07-10-2007, 03:40 PM   #10
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the battery is clean as a whistle and i double checked when it was doing its wierd power loss thing the headlights stay on nice and bright they dip a little from the relays going mad and the cooling fans comming on and off but its not like the car is losing body power just engine electrical. whatever is causeing it to lose power and make the relays click is obviously whats making it die out. it will do it wether the car is running or not you stat the car and it runs a minute maybe 5 and then the engine gets erratic idle and the relays start to click and she stalls and the relays keep clicking for a while and then it all goes silent and it will start again. well i tried it without starting the car and it sat there for a minute and then it did the dash lights and the clicking again so i check the fuel pressure i turned the key on and pushed the fuel pressure relief valve and puta glass under it to catch the fuel it ran loads of gas until it started to click and sure enough when that heppens the fuel pumps cuts out. oh and btw it doesnt have a check engine light staying on when it startes the light goes out normally until it freaks out but its like its not getting a hard failure code?
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